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Alle auf diesem Blog gezeigten Dinge habe ich selbst entworfen. Ich teile meine Ideen gern mit Euch und freue mich über alle, die das ebenfalls tun!!!
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Bitte respektiert die DIY- Idee!
Bitte verkauft keine Anleitungen von mir oder Dinge, die Ihr damit angefertigt habt. Und bitte respektiert mein Urheberrecht.
Natürlich dürft Ihr Dinge gerne nachbauen, nachhäkeln - selbst nutzen, weiterverschenken...
Danke! Eure Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Noch ein Wort zum Thema Werbung: Ich möchte mit meinem Blog auf keinen Fall für Produkte werben, sondern für Ideen! Manchmal kommt es aber vor, dass ich z.B. beim upcyclen Dinge benutze, wo noch ein Marken/ Produktname zu sehen ist oder beim Häkeln klar ist, von welchem Produkt die Idee stammt, das lässt sich nicht vermeiden. Bitte trefft in diesem Fall Eure eigenen wohlüberlegten Kaufentscheidungen!

Dear visitors,
Everything I show you on this blog is created by myself. I am happy to share this ideas with you for free.
I want also say thanks to everybody who shares own ideas for free as well!
This DIY idea is very important for me! Please respect this idea and don't sell anything you made from this ideas. And please don't declare this ideas of your own.
But feel free to give things made from these ideas as a gift or to use them for youself.
Thank you! Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Dienstag, 23. April 2019

Pauline Square english version

Hi there,




Update November 2022: I have worked the square again and updated the pattern. When I made the square in 2019, I just did - not knowing much about pattern requirements, english crochet terms, stitch counts, testing and so on. Nevertheless it`s a nice square and worth getting a nice pattern. So I have checked again if terms are used correctly and if everything is understandable. I also added the stitch count and checked the size so that you can sure to get a nice 12'' . I also added some new pictures. Hope you like it.

A litlle fun fact to the name of the square: It's named after a character from a video game my son played in this time very often.





Abbreviations (US terms used):


bldc – back loops only double crochet

blhdc- back loops only half double crochet

blsc – back loops only single crochet

ch- chain

dc- double crochet

fpsc- front post single crochet

hdc- half double crochet

sc- single crochet

sk- skip

slst – slip stitch

st - stitch

tr- treble crochet


Special stitches:

dc3tog- double crochet 3 together: (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook. 

dc4tog- double crochet 4 together: (Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops) 4 times, yarn over, draw through all loops on hook.

pic- picot: ch 3, slst to the back bump of first ch



Colours:

C1: yellow
C2: blueviolet
C3: dark blue
C4: light green
C5: dark green
C6: turquoise


Beginning and finishing a round:

Beginning: it is your choice: you can begin by chain (ch 1 instead of sc, ch 2 instead of hdc, ch 3 instead of dc, ch 4 instead of trc) or you start by using standing stitches. I prefer standing stitches.

Finishing: every round ends by a slst into the first stitch of the round.



Round by round pattern:

Rd.1, (C1): ch 6, slst to close circle


Rd. 2, (C1): [dc3tog, ch 2] x6, all worked in the circle. (6 dc3tog, 6 ch 2- spaces)




Rd .3, (C2): start in any ch 2- space: [dc4tog (first 2 dc are worked before the dc3tog of Rd.2 and the second two 2 dc are worked behind the dc3tog of Rd.2 in the next ch 2- space), pic, ch 3, sc in same ch 2-space, ch 3] x6. (6 cd4tog, 6 pic, 6 sc, 12 ch 3- spaces)



Rd.4, (C3): start in any ch 3- space before picot: [4 sc, ch 1 (placed behind pic), 4 sc into next ch 3- space, fpsc around sc] x6. (48 sc, 6 ch 1, 6 fpsc)



Rd.5, (C4): start in pic of R.3: [tr, now change to rd.4: skip first sc after the ch 1- space behind the rd. 3 pic, bldc, blhdc, blsc, fpsc around fpsc, sk first sc after the fpsc (maybe slightly hidden), blsc, blhdc, bldc] x6. (6 tr, 12 bldc, 12 blhdc, 12 blsc, 6 fpsc)



Rd.6, (C5), start in any fpsc: [sc in next 2 st, slst into next st, ch 3, dc into next st, (dc, ch 2, dc in next st – should be the tr), dc, ch 3, slst into next st, sc) x6 (18 sc, 12 slst, 24 dc, 12 ch 3, 6 ch 2- spaces)




Rd. 7, (C1), start in the first one of any 3 sc: [3 bldc, slst to 3rd ch of ch 3, ch 5, slst to 3rd ch of next ch 3] x 6. (18 bldc, 6 ch 5, 12 slst)





Rd.8, (C6), start in the first dc of any 3 dc: [dc, dc, ch1, dc directly in the next st, dc, ch 1, 2 dc in ch 5, ch 1, 2 dc into ch- spaces of Rd.6 AND Rd.7, ch 1, dc in ch 5, dc in slst, ch 1] x6. (60 dc, 30 ch 1)


 


Rd. 9, (C3), start in any ch 1: [2 dc in ch 1, dc, dc]. Repeat all around. (120 dc).  At this point, your square may curl a little bit. Don't panic. It will flatten out during the next rounds. And if that's not enough for you, you can still block it in the end.




Rd.10, (C2), start in any dc: [5 dc in one st, sk 4 stitches]. Repeat all around (120 dc)



Rd.11, (C4). This is the squaring round. Start in the gap between any two dc- groups: [ (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr = corner made), sk the next st ( maybe hidden), 4 dc, 5 hdc, 11 sc, 5 hdc, 4 dc] x4 (33 st per Side)




Rd.12, (C4), start in any corner ch- space: [ (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr = corner made) , 6 dc, 5 hdc, 11 sc, 5 hdc, 6 dc] x4 (37 st per side)




Rd.13, (C5), start in any corner: [(sc, ch2, sc) into corner ch- space= corner made, 37 blsc] x4 (39 st per side)





Weave in all ends. Give your square a slight blocking if required. Have fun with your new square!

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