Schneemann mit Eimerhut

 Hey Ihr,

Juhu, es liegt Schnee. Ja, so richtig - in Hannover. Sonst mussten wir immer in den letzten Jahren mindestens in den Deister dafür fahren. Und die ganzen coronagestressten Kinder sind voll aus dem Häuschen und bauen Armadas von Schneemenschen. Einer davon hat es uns ganz besonders angetan, dieser süße Kerl mit Eimerhut:

Tja, und so kam es dann, dass ich am Freitag noch nicht mal zur  Tür rein war (ich musste nämlich gemeinerweise arbeiten, während die Anderen im Schnee rumtollten), als es schon hieß: "Mama, ich hab ne super Idee, was Du als nächstes für eine Häkelanleitung machen kannst. So, jetzt wisst Ihr, wie dieser ungewöhnliche Schneemensch entstand:

Und so geht dieser süße Kerl:

Wenn ihr nachhäkeln wollt, braucht Ihr folgendes Material:

• weißes Flauschgarn (z.B. Schachenmayr Nordica, ca. 100 gramm)
• Baumwoll- Topflappengarn (yarn weight DK) in orange und schwarz
• Häkelnadel Nr. 5 und 3
• Stopfnadeln mit sehr dickem Ör
• Sicherheitsaugen (2 große und 4 kleinere)
• Füllwatte

Abkürzungen:

• fm - feste Masche
• KM - Kettmasche
• LM - Luftmasche

Anleitung:

gehäkelt wird in Runden. Jede Runde beginnt mit einer LM und endet mit einer KM. Das ist nicht extra angegeben und zählt auch nicht als Masche

Der Kopf: (mit dem weißen Flauschgarn und Nadel 5 mm):

6 fm in Magic Ring

1.: jede Masche verdoppeln (12)

2.: jede 2. Masche verdoppeln (18)

3.: jede 3. Masche verdoppeln (24)

4.: jede 4. Masche verdoppeln (30)

5. bis 8.: fm (30)

9.: jede 4. Masche zusammennehmen (24), Sicherheitsaugen befestigen (s. Foto)

10.: jede 3. Masche zusammennehmen (18)

11.: jede 2.  Masche zusammennehmen (12), mit Füllwatte ausstopfen

12.: immer 2 Maschen zusammennehmen (6)

Faden sichern, abschneiden, vernähen (dafür nehmt ihr die Stopfnadel mit dem extra dicken Ör).

Die Nase: (mit dem orangenen Garn und Häkelnadel 3 mm):

4 fm in Magic Ring

1.: fm (4)

2.: jede 2. Masche verdoppeln (6)

3.+4.: fm (6)

5.: 1.: jede 3. Masche verdoppeln (8)

Faden sichern, abschneiden. Nase mit Füllwatte füllen und annähen (s. Foto für Position)

Nun mit dem doppelt gelegten schwarzem Faden den Mund aufsticken

Die mittlere Kugel:  (mit dem weißen Flauschgarn und Nadel 5 mm):

6 fm in Magic Ring

1.: jede Masche verdoppeln (12)

2.: jede 2. Masche verdoppeln (18)

3.: jede 3. Masche verdoppeln (24)

4.: jede 4. Masche verdoppeln (30), bereits jetzt die mittlere Kugel von innen an die obere Kugel nähen.

5.: jede 5. Masche verdoppeln (36)

6.: jede 6. Masche verdoppeln (42)

7. bis 10.: fm (42)

11.: jede 6. Masche zusammennehmen (36)

12.: jede 5. Masche zusammennehmen (30)

13.: jede 4. Masche zusammennehmen (24), 3 kleine Sicherheitsaugen befestigen (s. Foto)

14.: jede 3. Masche zusammennehmen (18)

15.: jede 2.  Masche zusammennehmen (12), mit Füllwatte ausstopfen

16.: immer 2 Maschen zusammennehmen (6)

Faden sichern, abschneiden, vernähen (dafür nehmt ihr die Stopfnadel mit dem extra dicken Ör).

Die untere Kugel:  (mit dem weißen Flauschgarn und Nadel 5 mm):

6 fm in Magic Ring

1.: jede Masche verdoppeln (12)

2.: jede 2. Masche verdoppeln (18)

3.: jede 3. Masche verdoppeln (24)

4.: jede 4. Masche verdoppeln (30), bereits jetzt die mittlere Kugel von innen an die obere Kugel nähen.

5.: jede 5. Masche verdoppeln (36)

6.: jede 6. Masche verdoppeln (42)

7.: jede 7. Masche verdoppeln (48)

8.: jede 8. Masche verdoppeln (54)

9. bis 12.: fm (54)

13.:  jede 8. Masche zusammennehmen (48)

14.:  jede 7. Masche zusammennehmen (42)

15.: jede 6. Masche zusammennehmen (36)

16.: jede 5. Masche zusammennehmen (30)

17.: jede 4. Masche zusammennehmen (24), 1 kleines Sicherheitsauge befestigen (s. Foto)

18.: jede 3. Masche zusammennehmen (18)

19.: jede 2.  Masche zusammennehmen (12), mit Füllwatte ausstopfen

20.: immer 2 Maschen zusammennehmen (6)

Faden sichern, abschneiden, vernähen (dafür nehmt ihr die Stopfnadel mit dem extra dicken Ör).

Der Eimer:  (mit dem weißen Flauschgarn und Nadel 5 mm):

6 fm in Magic Ring

1.: jede Masche verdoppeln (12)

2.: jede 2. Masche verdoppeln (18)

3.: jede 3. Masche verdoppeln (24)

4.: fm nur ins hintere Maschenglied (24)

5.: jede 7. Masche zusammennehmen (21)

6.:  jede 6. Masche zusammennehmen (18)

7.:  jede 5. Masche zusammennehmen (15)

8.: fm (15)

9.:  jede 4. Masche zusammennehmen (12)

10.: fm (12)

Faden sichern, abschneiden, Füllwatte einfüllen und Eimer ein bißchen Schief über das linke Auge nähen.

Fallen leaves

The fourth pattern of my 'representing the 4 seasons' series. Here comes the autumn 6“ square. I got the idea for that square in the 'Gardens of Herrenhausen' where I live nearby and spend much of my free time. This autumn I made some pictures there which I love very much. You can see them further down.

Autumn – this means for me nice coloured leaves and misty mornings. I tried to show these things in this little square.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Skill level: medium

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

  in green (G), sand (S), yellow (Y) and red (R)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations:

• ch – chain

• slst – slip stitch

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• sc - single crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• st – stitch

• sk - skip

• bl – back loop

• sp - space

Special stitches:

• puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

• front post puff (fppuff): work like a puff, but put the hook into the indicated stitch the same way you do it when working a normal front post stitch

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.

Pattern:

1.

(S) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle. Do not fo.

2.

(S) (2 sc into the circle , ch 2) x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 4 ch-2)

3.

(G) Start in any ch- 2- sp. [(Hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, 2 bphdc around the sc] x4 . Slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 8 bphdc, 4 ch-2)

4.

(S) Start at any corner. [(Sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sk hidden st, sc, dc into rd 2- sc directly below (this one right to a rd 2- corner), back to rd 3: sk the hidden st, sc into next st] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 sc, 4 dc, 4 ch-2)

5.

(Y) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc)=corner made, ch 1, puff into the sp directly right to the dc from rd 4, ch 1, puff into the sp directly left to the dc from rd 4, ch 1]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 12 ch-1, 4 ch-2, 8 puff)

6.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 4 in this round, it is suggested to work them in front of the rd 5 chain- sts. Start at first corner st. [(Fpsc around rd 5 dc, change to rd 4: {dc, ch 2,dc}, fpsc around rd 5 dc)= corner made, dc into sk st of rd 4, fpsc around puff, fpdc around dc from rd 4, fpsc around puff, dc in sk st from rd 4] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 fpsc, 16 dc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch-2)

7.

(R) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, ch 2, puff into the dc before rd 5- puff, fppuff around rd 5- puff, ch 1, fppuff around rd 5- puff, puff into the dc after rd 5- puff, ch 2] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 8 puff, 8 fppuff,4 ch-1,

12 ch-2)

8.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 6 in this round, it is suggested to work them in front of the rd 7 chain- stitches. Start at first corner st. [(Fpsc around rd 7 dc, change to rd 6: {dc, ch 2,dc}, fpsc around rd 7 dc)= corner made, 2 dc into sk sts of rd 6, fpsc around next 2 puffs, fpdc around fpdc from rd 6, fpsc around next 2 puffs, 2 dc in sk sts from rd 6] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (24 fpsc, 24 dc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch-2)

9.

(Y) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, ch 5, (fppuff around next two puff sts from rd 7 together) x2, ch 5] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 8 ch-5, 8 fppuff, 4 ch-2)

10.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 8 in this round, it is suggested to work them around the rd 9 chain- stitches, including the corners. [(Fpsc around rd 9 dc, change to rd 8: {hdc, ch 2,hdc}, fpsc around rd 9 dc)= corner made, 2 hdc into next sk st of rd 8, hdc in next two rd 8 dc, 2 hdc in next rd 8 dc, fpsc around both puffs together, 2 hdc into next sk st of rd 8, hdc in next two rd 8 dc, 2 hdc in next rd 8 dc] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (12 fpsc, 48 hdc, 4 ch-2)

11.

(G) This is a kind of modified surface- stitch round for forming the leaves. You can just work a combination of slst and ch-1 and have a go on your own. Or you follow these instructions: Start with a slst around a fpsc in the middle of any side. [working down the leaf: ch 1, slst around rd 9 chain (directly left to the fppuff), ch 1, slst around rd 7 chain (directly left to the puff), ch 1, slst around round 5 chain (directly left to the puff), ch 2, slst around rd 4 dc (in the middle of one side), now working counterclockwise : ch 1, 2 slst around rd 3 hdc (the ones of the corner), ch 1, slst around rd 4 dc (in the middle of one side), now working up the next leaf: ch 2, slst around rd 5 chain (directly right to the puff), ch 1, slst around rd 7 chain (directly right to the fppuff) ch 1, slst around rd 9 chain (directly right to the fppuff), ch 1, slst to ffpsc in the middle of one side] x4 (45 slst, 32 ch 1, 8 ch 2)

That's it! Have fun!Copyright Dec. 2020 by Loewenzahm

Special thanks to JustJilly for testing! This was a great help for me!

crocheted by JustJilly

The 'Gardens of Herrenhausen' in autumn

Leaf tendril joining

Hi to you all,

this was a real difficult morning today: When I went to bed yesterday, I thought about to join my next blanket with leaf tendrils. But I didn't find such a connection. So I asked in the great bamcal group (Hi to you! Your help is always great!!!) about any ideas and tested many options this morning. The suggested patterns looked really nice, but nothing was suitable for me - you have to know I am a bit lazy about joing and need something quick, easy AND effective! Something where I don't need to rib off too much if I count wrong and where I can cheat if necessary.

But as so many times before - your help wasn't useless. After checking all ideas and trying and mixing and ribbing off again - in my head grew that idea. And now I am really satisified. This joining is a bit worked like my last years' grain connection , but I modified it for the leaf effect!

General information:

I use US terms in these descriptions!

Abbreviations:

• st - stitch
• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• dc - double crochet
• slst - slip stitch

For this joining you need the same amount of stitches at each granny square. My stitch count before the joining is 39 stitches per side.

My plan is to join at first as many squares as I need for my desired lenghth. After that, I will choin the pieces togehther until I have my desired width.

Joining two squares at one side:

The joining is worked in three steps:

1. Work a round in white around each square you want to join. In the corner you work (one stitch, ch 2, one stitch). This round you can use to get your squares at exactly the same size. You can work sc, hdc, dc...; just as you like and need for the right size. It is just important, that your stitch count is 41 at the end of this round. Fasten off.
2. Now you work another round around each square in light green: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, sk 1 st (the hidden st), (ch 2, sk 1 st, sc)x19, ch2] x4. Fasten off. You should have 21 sc on each side now .
3. Now you change to dark green and start with the joining itself:  place both squares in front of you, one behind the other with the right side upside. You begin at the square which is in front of  you: Work a slip stich in the first ch- 2- space left to the right corner (NOT in the corner). (Hook from the upside to the downside of the square). Then you chain one . Now work a slip stitch (hook again from the upside to the downside) in the first ch-2 left to the right corner of the square which is further behind of you. ☆ Now again chain 1 and again a slip stitch into the next ch- 2 of the square in frount of you. Chain one again, then a slip stitch to the next ch-2 of the square further behind of you☆. Repeat from ☆-☆, until the last ch-2 space further behind of you (NOT the corner).

It is a little bit like a zipper.

Joining over the corners (Note January 2021: this is not worked by me yet, because I didn't work enough squares to test. That's the way it should work! I tell you when I tested this step. If you are faster than me, please feel free to test and to contact me if there are any problems.)

Aboveis the method to join two squares. When you are finished with the desired length of your blanket, you can join two long pieces together. At this step, you don't have to leave out the corners. Just work over them.

Here is a little scheme:

 

Maschenmarkierer fürs Häkeln

 Hey Ihr,

nachdem ich jahrelang meine Maschen mit Wollfäden markiert habe (von denen es bei mir meistens mehr als genug gibt), hat mich Mariofreak nun zu richtigen Maschenmarkierern überredet.

 

Ich habe mich ein bißchen im www. umgesehen und Anleitungen für schöne Perlenmodelle zum Stricken gefunden.

Hängen geblieben bin ich bei denen hier: Maschenmarkierer

 Leider ist das dort angewendete Schlaufenprinzip fürs Häkeln völlig ungegeignet. Deshalb habe ich einfach in die Schlaufe noch einen Verschlusshaken für Modeschmuck eingefädelt. Mit dieser kleinen Änderung steht nun dem Häkelglück Nichts mehr im Weg:

 

 

Sun in the sky

 Sun in the sky

This one is the 2^nd square from Mariofreak. And the second square for his cushion 'the 4 seasons'.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Skill level: medium

Size: 20 cm or 9 inch

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight) in yellow (Y) and different shades of skyblue (B)

• hook Nr. 6

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations:

• ch – chain

• slst – slip stitch

• sc - single crochet

• dc – double crochet

• tc – treble crochet

• qdc – quadruple crochet

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• CS – cross stitch (special stitch, explained below)

• fo – fasten off

• st – stitch

• sk - skip

• V – V- Stitch (dc, ch 1, dc)

Special stitch:

• Cross stitch: (Abbreviation: CS): Yarn over 2 times, insert hook through next st, yarn over, pull through st. 4 loops on the hook now. Yarn over. Pull yarn through two loops. 3 loops on the hook now. Yarn over, sk one st, pull hook through next st. Yarn over, pull trough st. 5 loops on the hook. (Yarn over, pull through two loops) four times, until there is only one loop left. Ch 1. Work a normal dc, pull the hook directly through the 'cross' for that dc.

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.

Pattern:

1. (Y) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle.

Do not fo.

2. (Y) 9 dc into the circle. Slst to first st, Do not fo (9 dc).

3. (Y) 18 dc in each dc. Slst to first st. Do not fo (18 dc)

4. (Y) ch 4, (6 CS, ch 6)x6 . Slst to first CS, fo

5. (B) Start at a rd 3 dc where you have worked the second leg of a CS. Working behind all stitches already there. (dc in that dc, bpdc around first leg of rd 4 CS, dc in the rd 3 dc between the two legs, fpdc around second leg)x 6 (18 bpdc, 6 dc)

6. (B) Start in any st: 2 qdc in each st all around (48 qdc)

7. (B) This is the squaring round. Start in any st. [( 2 tc, ch 2, 2 tc)= corner made, 2 dc, hdc, 5 sc, hdc, 2 dc]x4 (16 tc, 16 dc, 8 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2)

8. (B) Start in any corner. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, sk hidden st, 14 dc] x4 . Slst to first st, fo (72 dc, 4 ch-2)

9. (B) Start in any corner. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 6 V- Stitches] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (24 V, 8 dc, 4 ch-2)

surface stitches in colour Y between Rd. 3 / 4

Fix the yellow chains with a little bit of yellow yarn to form the rays of the sun. Suggestion by Loewenzahm: you can do that with your surface stitches as well!

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Dec. 2020 by Mariofreak

Tested by Loewenzahm: