Macorina

Here is the next one of my 6" series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares.

This time I listened to the legendary Chavela Vargas and one of her most iconic songs, Macorina. Her interpretation is bold, emotional, and full of passion – qualities that shaped the character of this square. Just like the song itself, making it a true tribute to her artistry.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: advanced beginner to intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Colour Placement:

I do not provide a specific colour placement for this square, as it is a wonderful opportunity to let your own creativity shine. The only guideline is to change colours after every round. If you prefer to work the square in a single colour, please note that it only works well starting from the squaring round, as you can see in my example.

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch = chain

• dc = double crochet

• 3 dccl = three double crochet cluster stitch

• fo = fasten off

• hdc = half double crochet

• picot = ch3, slst into first ch

• sc = single crochet

• sk = skip

• slst = slip stitch

• st = stitch

Special stitches:

• 3 dc cluster:
  Yarn over, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

• Picot:
  Ch 3, then slst into the first ch made (the one closest to the stitch you started from).

Pattern:

Round 1

Ch 4, close to circle with slst , work ch 3 (replaces first dc) and 11 dc into magic ring. Join with slst to first dc. Slst to first dc, fo.

Round 2
Start in any dc: (slst in one dc, ch 2, 3 dccl into next dc, picot, ch2) × 6. Slst to same dc as first slst, fo.

Round 3
Start at any picot: (1 sc into picot, 5 dc in rd 1 dc where the slst goes into, over the slst) × 6. Slst to first sc, fo.

Round 4
Start at any st: (dc, ch 1) × 36. Slst to first dc, fo. Maybe your work is waving a little bit now. No problem- we will fix that over the next rounds!

Round 5

This is the squaring round – work only in ch-spaces, skip all sts. Start in ch- space directly above a first dc of rnd 3 5-dc group: [(dc, ch 3, dc) = corner made. Into next ch-spaces: (2 hdc), hdc, (2 sc), sc, sc, (2 sc), hdc, (2 hdc)] × 4. Slst to first dc, fo.

Round 6

Start at any corner ch- 3: [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) = corner made, 14 hdc]× 4. Slst to first hdc, fo.

Round 7

Start at any corner ch- 2: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sk first st, (17 sc)] × 4. Slst to first sc, fo.

Yeah, your square is finished now. Just weave in your ends and block your square if necessary. Enjoy!

Round by round pictures:

Thanks to Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) for testing this square for me! Your comments were really helpful!

Copyright August 2025 by Loewenzahm.

Malaika 6" square

Here is the next one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to the great Miriam Makaba and one of my favorite songs of her, Malaika.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: advanced beginner to medium

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Note on Colour Placement:

I do not provide a specific colour placement for this square, as different colour placement is great for getting your own unique square. The only guideline is to change colours after every round – this keeps the design vibrant and highlights the structure of the stitches. If you prefer to work the square in a single colour, please note that it only works well for the last two rounds, as you can see in my example.

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch = chain

• dc = double crochet

• 2dccl = two double crochet cluster

• 3dccl = three double crochet cluster

• fo = fasten off

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• fpsc = front post single crochet

• hdc = half double crochet

• rd = round

• sc = single crochet

• st(s) = stitch(es)

• sk = skip

• sl st = slip stitch

Pattern:

Round 1

Ch 4, close to a circle with sl st. Ch 1 (does not count as st). (2dccl, ch 3) x 4.
Sl st to first st, fo. (4 2dccl, 4 ch-3)

Round 2

Start at any 2 dccl. [fpsc around 2dccl, ch 1, 3dccl (around beginning ch-4, between 2dccl already there and in front of 2 rd 1 ch-3), ch 1] x 4. Sl st to first st, fo. (8 ch-1,4x 3dccl, 4 fpsc)

Round 3

Start at any fpsc. [(dc, ch 2, dc) in fpsc = corner made, hdc around ch-1, fpsc around 3dccl, hdc around ch-1] x 4. Sl st to first st, fo. (per side 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 fpsc)

Round 4

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1, hdc) x 2, ch 1, sk 1] x 4. Sl st to first hdc, fo. (per side 4 hdc, 3 ch-1)

Round 5

Start in any corner ch- 3. [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) = corner made, (fpsc around next hdc, dc in skipped st of Rd 3) x 3, fpsc around next hdc] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (per side 4 sc, 4 fpsc, 3 dc)

Round 6

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 11 dc (do not miss first hidden st)] x 4. Sl st to first dc, fo. (per side 13 dc)

Round 7

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1, 2dccl) x 6, ch 1, sk 1] x 4. Sl st to first hdc, fo. (per side 2 hdc, 6 2dccl, 7 ch-1)

Round 8

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, (fpsc, dc in sk st of Rd 6 in front of Rd 7 ch-1) x 7, fpsc] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (2 sc, 8 fpsc, 7 dc)

Round 9

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 17 sc (do not miss first hidden st)] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (per side 19 sc)

Weave in all ends.

Yeah, you've finished this little square now!

Round by round pictures:

Thanks to Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) and Lettice for testing. Your notes were really useful!

Copyright August 2025 by Loewenzahm

Memories of Summer

 

Memories of summer

Do you know 'Fredrick', a children's book from Leo Leoni? Frederick is a little mouse, and in summer he is collecting colours, smells, sunlight... to profit from them in deep winter. In winter he is telling other mice from all the colours to give them a feeling of warmth.

This square catches up the spirit of this book. I developed in autumn 2023, without any specific flower in my mind. But full of colours, structure and everything a square can provide and I am writing down everything now in winter 2024. Now, in summer 2025, finally everything is ready, tested and revisted. As it is a very complex square, it really took a lot of time, and I hope, we (my testers and me) found every mistake and unconsitency. If not, please forgive me and ask. I`ll always there for help if needed.

When you work in summer, perhaps you can put some good wishes for the next cold and grey winter in it.

However- have fun with it!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level:

advanced intermediate to advanced (basic stitches, but many; concentration on stitch placement needed), note that it is a very complex pattern!

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 3 dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• bl – back loop

• blsc – back loop single crochet

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• bptr – back post treble crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fl – front loop

• flsc – front loop single crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fptr – front post treble crochet

• fptr2tog – front post treble 2 together

• hdc – half double crochet

• puff – puff stitch (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• sk – skip

• slst – slip stitch

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst into first ch

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

Note:

the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr).

Colourways:

Round	Hot fire colourway	Ethiopian colourway	Cold blue colourway
1	white	white	light grey
2	white	white	light grey
3	light yellow	light yellow	middle blue
4	light red	light red	white
5	light red	light red	white
6	dark red	dark red	sand
7	light red	light red	dark blue
8	wine red	light yellow	light browm
9	yellow	yellow	middle blue
10	dark red	dark red	dark blue
11	white	green	white
12	white	green	white
13	sand	white	sand
14	light yellow	light yellow	light brown
15	yellow	yellow	middle blue
16	dark red	dark red	dark blue
17	light red	green	white
18	wine red	white	sand
19	dark red	white	middle blue
20	light red	white	dark blue

Pattern:

1. Ch 4, close to circle with slst. Ch 1( does not count as st), 4 sc into that circle. Slst into first sc, do not fo. (4 sc)

2. Work into middle circle, over rd 1 st: 8sc. Slst into first sc, fo. (8 sc)

3. Work in fl only, start at any st: slst in that st, (ch 2, 3dccl, picot, ch 2, slst into same st, slst into next st) x8. Fo. (16 ch-2-spaces, 8 3dccl, 8 picot, 16 slst)

4. Work only in bl of rd 2, sk all other st, start in any st: (sc, ch 3, sk 1 st) x4. Slst to first sc, do not fo. (4 sc, 4 ch-3)

5. Work only in rd 4 spaces, sk all st: (slst into next ch-3- space, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, slst into same ch-3- space) x4. fo. (8 slst, 12 dc, 8 ch-1)

6. In this round you will tack down the first 4 leaves of your rd 3 petals. Start in first dc of a 3- dc- fan: [(sc, hdc) into dc, 2 dc into ch-1- space, ch 1, bptr around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl, picot, ch 1, now back to rd 5: 2 dc into next ch-1- space, (hdc,sc) into next dc, slst into rd 4 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo ( 8 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8 ch-1, 4 bptr, 4 picot)

7. In this round you will tack down the last 4 leaves of the rd 3 petals. Start in sc after a slst: [bpsc, 3 bphdc, (ch 1, puff) x2 into ch-1- space, (ch 1, puff) x2 into picot, (ch 1, puff) x2 into next ch-1- space, ch 1, 3 bphdc, sk last st, bpsc around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl] x4. Slst into first st, fo. (8 bpsc, 24 bphdc, 28 ch-1, 24 puff)

8. Start around any last puff of a 6- puff- series: [fpsc around puff, ch 6, fpsc around first puff of next petal, 2 sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into next ch-1- space, sk puff, into next ch-1- space: (4 dc, picot, 3 dc), sk next puff, sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around puff, 2 sc into next ch-1- space] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 fpsc, 4 ch-6, 24 sc, 28 dc, 4 picot)

9. Start in any rd 7 ch-1- space after the last puff of a 6- puff- group, work in front of the rd 8 ch-6: [sc, (3 dc, picot,3 dc) into rd 7 bpsc (the one that is worked into rd 3 3dccl), sc into ch-1- space (before next puff, work in front of rd 8 ch-6); now to rd 8: 4 blsc into next 4 st after the ch-6- space, ch 5 (place behind corner fan), sk all st until the last 4 st before the next ch-6, work 4 blsc into the last 4 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 24 dc, 4 picot, 32 blsc, 4 ch-5)

10. The scs in this round are worked into stitches which already have a blsc worked in. Start in rd 8 st, start in any sc after a rd 8 corner fan: [4 flsc, sk next st, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 sc and rd 9 dc-fan and around rd 8 ch-6, (puff, ch 1, puff) into rd 9 picot, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 dc- fan and rd 9 sc and around rd 8 ch- 6, back to rd 8: sk 1 st, 4 flsc, pull the rd 8 ch- 5 to the front of your work through the gap under the rd 9 fan and work a tr into the ch sp, ch 2, (puff, ch 2, puff) into rd 9 corner picot, ch 2, back to rd 8: tr (worked like tr before)] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (32 flsc. 12 ch- 1, 32 puff, 8 tr, 12 ch-2) Note: Your square will be a bit wavy now. Don't panic- we will made it flat again.

11. We are switching the corners now. The new corners will be between the middle puffs of a 6- puff- group. Start in the gap between the second and the third puff of a 6- puff- group: [dc, fpdc around third and fourth puff together, ch 3, fpdc around third and forth puff together again, dc into gap between fourth and fifth puff, 2 hdc into next ch- 1- space, sc into first sc; now to rd.9 (behind rd 10): sc into sc directly under the next rd 10 sc, sc, 2 sc into ch-5- space (before the first rd 10 tr), 2 sc into ch- 5- space (after the second rd 10 tr); sk 1 st, sc into next 2 sc, now to rd 10: sc into sc before the puff, 2 hdc into ch-1- space (between next two puffs)] x4. Slst to first st, do not fo. (per side: 2 dc, 2 fpdc, 1ch-3, 4 hdc, 9 sc = 18 st/ side)

12. Slst until ch-3- space (the new corner space), ch 1 (does not count as st): [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, 6 sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc] x4. Fo. (per side: 8 hdc, 6 dc, 6 sc = 20 st/ side)

13. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 3, dc)= corner made; 8 bpdc; now in rd 10: sc in ch-2- space before puff, fpsc around puff, 3 sc into next ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into ch-2- space, back to rd 12: sk 3 st, 8 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 2 dc, 16 bpdc, 5 sc, 2 fpsc = 25 st/ side)

14. Start in corner ch-3- space: [7 dc in corner ch-3- space, sk 2 st, (sc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x3, 9 sc, (ch 1, sk 2 st, sc) x3] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 7 dc, 15 sc, 6 ch-1 = 29 st/ side)

15. Start in fourth dc of a 7- dc-group (should be the corner): [(sc,ch 2, sc) = corner made, 2 sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, puff into gap between last dc and first sc, (ch 1, sk 1 sc, puff in ch-1- space) x3, ch 1, sk 2 st, 5 bpsc, ch 1, sk 2 st, (puff into ch-1- space, ch 1, sk sc) x3, puff in gap between last sc and first dc, ch 1, sk first dc, 2 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 10 ch-1, 8 puff, 5 bpsc = 29 st/ side)

16. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc around next 3 st, fptr around rd 13 dc (first one after the corner), ch 1, (fpsc around puff, ch 1) x4, sc in each of first two bpsc, ch 1, fptr2tog (first leg around first part of rd 8 ch 6 {this is the small ch- part before the two round 10 puffs}, second leg around second part of rd 8 ch-6 {this is the small ch-part after the two rd 10 puffs}), ch 1, sk 1 sc (behind fptr2tog just worked), sc in each of last two bpsc, (ch 1, fpsc around puff) x4, ch 1, fptr around rd 13 dc (last dc before the corner), 3 bpsc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 6 bpsc, 12 ch-1, 8 fpsc, 2 fptr, 1 fptr2tog = 35 st/ side)

17. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 4 hdc, fpdc around fptr, (hdc in fpsc, dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space) x4, 2 hdc, puff around fptr2tog (between both legs), 2 hdc, (dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space, hdc) x4, fpdc around fptr, 4 hdc] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo. (per side: 22 hdc, 2 fpdc, 8 dc, 1 puff = 33 st/side)

18. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 5 bpdc, fpdc around fpdc, 10 dc, fpdc around puff, 10 dc, fpdc around fpdc, 5 bpdc] x4. Fo (per side: 22 dc, 10 bpdc, 3 fpdc = 35 st/ side)

19. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 35 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (37 sc/ side)

20. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 7 bpdc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st (do not accidentely sk two st!), 21 dc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st, 7 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 23 dc, 14 bpdc, 2 fptr = 39 st/ side)

Round by round pictures (round 1 to 18, no pictures for rd 19 and 20, as these rounds are pretty easy)

A bit thank you to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Natalie (Sms134 on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry)

That's it! Have fun! Copyright by Loewenzahm August 2025

Slip stitch joining

Hi to you all,

 

I just tried this new joining method, and because it's nice, easy and flat, I wrote it down.

 This won't be a long post, just a quick photo tutorial, if someone is interested in the making.

That's the look in the end:

 

And here are my handwritten charts:

 

 And some describing pictures:

 

 

That's it for today! Hope that helps.

Flower Bouquet

This is my contribution to the bamcal 2025 and an homage to early spring flowers. I combined different flowers for you: lesser celandine, daisy, tulip, dandelion. Flowers that mean spring for me. The result is a big new flower. Or, if you want to say so- a flower bouquet.

I did not use the original colours, as in the bamcal we all use our unique ones. So feel free to use whatever you want. If you want to use the colours the plants really have: lesser celandine is yellow, daisy white and yellow, tulip exists in many ways and dandelion seeds are light brown. But it's not necessary at all. The only thing you have to take care is not to fo when I say so, as some effects need more than one round.

The pattern contains 22 rounds, which is quite a big amount, and it looks very complex. But please don't fear- most of the time I used basic stitches and many of the rounds are so easy and repetet that I even decided not to provide a stitch count in these rounds.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Stitches and abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 2trcl – 2 treble cluster 

• 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• 3 fpdccl – 3 front post double crochet cluster 

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• picot (see below)

• popcorn (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• special picot (see below)

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst into the 2 strands (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close

Special picot: ch 3, slst into the 4 loops (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

Notes

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

• Every round ends with a slst to join

• Every round ends with fo, unless otherwise stated.

• I recommend to work all back post stitches shallow (but there's no need to).

• Stitch counts are only indicated in complex rounds.

Colourways:

Round	Ethiopian colourway	Lavendula colourway
1	dark red	turquoise
2	middle green	middle green
3	middle green	middle green
4	dark yellow	lavender
5	dark yellow	lavender
6	light red	white
7	light red	white
8	middle green	middle green
9	middle green	middle green
10	light yellow	purple
11	light yellow	purple
12	dark yellow	blackberry
13	middle green	white
14	middle green	white
15	white	turquoise
16	white	turquoise
17	middle green	middle green
18	dark yellow	brown
19	middle green	middle green
20	dark yellow	brown
21	white	white
22	white	grey

Pattern:

Lesser celandine

1. Ch 5, slst to form a ring (or magic ring as a start, just as you prefer), ch 1 (does not count as a st), work (sc, 2 trcl, ch 1) x8 into the ring. Pull all your 2trcl to the front.

Lesser celandine leaves

2. Start in any 2trcl, work only in 2trcl, sk all other st: (fpsc around 2trcl, ch 2) x8. Do not fo.

3. [Slst into next ch 2- space, ch 1 (very loosely worked, just to get height), (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) into ch 2- space, slst into fpsc, now working in sk sc of rd 1 and over ch- 2 of rd 2: sc, slst into rd 2 fpsc] x4. (Total stitch count: 20 dc, 12 slst, 4 ch- 1, 4 picot, 4 sc)

Daisy

4. Work only in rd 3 sc, sk all other st. Start in any sc: (sc, ch 4) x4. Pull ch- 4 behind the lesser celandine leaves. Do not fo.

5. Work only in ch- 4- Sk all sc. Slst into next ch- space, ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (8 dc in ch- 4) x4.

6. Start in any rd 3 picot: [sc into picot, now back to rd 5: 8 bpsc (start in the 5^th dc of an 8 dc- group, do not sk any st except the beginning ch- 1] x4. Do not fo. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the next rounds.

7. Ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (3 dccl, special picot, ch 1, sk 1) x18.

Daisy leaves

8. Work only in sk st of rd 6. sk all other st. Start in any rd 6 sk bpsc: [dc (worked in front of rd 7 ch- 1), ch 2 (pull behind rd 7 special picot)] x18. Do not fo.

9. [ch 2, work 3fpdccl around next dc , ch 2, slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (before the petal), ch 1 (pull behind work), slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (after the petal)] x18.

Tulip

10. Work only in ch- 1 of last round. Sk all other st: (sc into ch- 1, ch 3) x18. Pull ch- 3 behind leaves. Do not fo.

11. Work only in ch- 3, sk all other st: [In first ch- 3 work: (slst, sc, 2 hdc, dc), in second ch- 3 work: (dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, dc), in third ch- 3 work (dc, 2 hdc, sc, slst)] x6. (Stitch count per petal: 2 slst, 2 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 1 picot)

12. Start in any sc at the beginning of a petal: (7 bphdc, ch 1, hdc in picot, ch 1, 7 bphdc, sk slst, fphdc around rd 10 sc, back to rd 11: sk slst) x6. (Stitch count per petal: 14 bphdc, 2 ch- 1, 1 hdc, 1 fphdc)

Background (part 1)

13. Start at any fphdc: [{(dc, ch 1) x5, dc, all in fphdc}, sk 4 st, 3 bpsc, ch 3, sk (ch 1, hdc, ch 1), 3 bpsc, sk 4 st] x6. Do not fo. (Stitch count per repetition: 6 dc, 5 ch- 1, 6 bpsc, 1 ch- 3)

14. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: slst to third ch- 1 of a fan, ch 1 (does not count as a st). (sc in third ch of a fan, ch 3, dc into space between fan and first bpsc, ch 3, sc in rd 12 hdc and around rd 13 ch- 3 together, ch 3, dc in space between last bpsc and next fan, ch 3) x6. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the squaring rounds.(stitch count per repetition: 2 sc, 2 dc, 4 ch- 3)

Squaring rounds

15. First of all mark your corners. Look at the 4 leaves at round 3. The corners are (more or less) directly above their picots. There should be a sc of round 14 (2 of them go into a rd 13 fan, 2 of them go into a hdc of rd 12 petal). Place stitch markers. (See round by round picture for rd 14 for the marked corners). Start in any corner sc: [(tr, ch 3, tr) in sc, 4 dc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 sc into next ch- space, sc into next st, 4 sc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 dc into next ch- space] x4. Do not fo. (Stitch count per side: 2 tr, 1 corner ch- 3, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 9 sc = 27 st/ side)

16. Slst into corner ch- 3, ch 1 (does not count as a st): [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch- space, hdc, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 9 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, hdc] x4. (Stitch count per side: 14 hdc, 8 dc, 9 sc, 1 corner ch- 2 = 31 st/ side)

Dandelion buds and seeds

17. Start in any corner ch- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc, ch 3, sk 3 st, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc] x4 (Stich count per side: 2 hdc, 1 corner ch- 2, 8 ch- 1, 20 bphdc, 1 ch- 3 = 33 st/ side)

18. Start in any rd 17 corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, now all into rd 16: ch 3, (dc in unworked st from rd 16, in front of rd 17 ch- space, ch 2) x4, ch 1, popcorn in second unworked st of a set of 3 in rd 16 (sk st directly before and after the popcorn), ch 3, (dc in next rd 16 unworked st, ch 2) x4, ch 1] x4. (Stitch count per side: 2 sc, 2 ch- 3, 8 ch- 2, 2 ch- 1, 8 dc, 1 popcorn = 35 st/ side)

19. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc into next st; now to rd 17 (work in unworked st, don't miss first st): 3 hdc, (ch 1, sk rd 18 dc, hdc in next 2 skipped st) x4; now around rd 17 and 18 ch- space together: hdc, ch 1, sk popcorn, hdc; now again in rd 17: (2 hdc in unworked st, ch 1, sk rd 18 dc) x4, 3 hdc; back to rd 18: sc in sc] x4 (Stitch count per side: 4 sc, 24 hdc, 11 ch- 1, 1 corner ch- 2 = 37 st/side)

20. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in rd 18 popcorn, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1] x4 (Stitch count per side: 2 hdc, 2 fpdc, 6 ch- 1, 3 dc, 8 V- stitch = 37 st/ side

Background (part 2)

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk 1 st, dc in ch- 1. dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1 (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, (2 dc in ch- 1 of middle fan) x2, (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, dc in ch- 1, dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1, dc in hdc] x4 (Stitch count: 37 dc/ side)

          This and the next rounds are good rounds to adapt your size if needed!

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc to the end of the side] x4. (Stitch count 39 st/ side)

Yeah, you got it! Weave in all ends and be happy!

Round by round pictures:

Lettice, Jilly and Berniece: Thanks a lot for testing for me!

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2025 by Loewenzahm