Herbstaster

As autumn arrives and the last flowers brighten the garden before winter comes, the aster takes center stage with its vibrant colors and delicate beauty. Inspired by these late-season blooms, Herbstaster captures the charm of autumn in a textured and richly detailed granny square design.

At the heart of this square blooms a soft, three-dimensional aster flower, surrounded by layered stitches and contrasting colors that echo crisp autumn skies, golden leaves, and the final blossoms of the season. Designed for makers who enjoy texture and decorative details, this square celebrates the beauty of October — a time when nature slows down, but still offers moments of color and warmth.

Whether you use Herbstaster as part of a blanket, cushion, wall hanging, or as a standalone piece, this square brings a touch of autumn garden magic to every project.

So grab your yarn, settle in with a warm drink, and let’s crochet the beauty of autumn, one stitch at a time.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate (basic stitches, but many; a complex middle part)

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 3 dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• bl – back loop

• bldc – back loop double crochet

• blhdc – back loop half double crochet

• blsc – back loop single crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

• fl – front loop

• fldc – front loop double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• sk – skip

• slst – slip stitch

• st – stitch/ stitches

• ws – wrong side

Special stitches:

Picot: ch 3, slst into first ch

Popcorn: work 5 dc into indicated st. Remove hook from last st and insert in first dc, pull working loop through the first dc. Ch 1 to close

Note:

The first st of a round is a standing st, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing st, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc).

St count in the squared rounds: normally, I count only the st per side, without the corner chains. If there are specific st in the corners, they are counted and this is indicated in the st count.

I recommend to work all back post st shallow. It's not a must, but I think it gives the st a very neat look.

Colourways:

Round	Dark red blue colourway	Pastel colourway
1	Middle blue	Light blue
2	Dark red	Plum
3	Middle blue	Light blue
4	Dark red	Plum
5	Middle blue	Light blue
6	Dark grey	White
7	Dark grey	White
8	White	Yellow
9	Dark grey	White
10	Light brown	Dark grey
11	Turquoise	Light blue
12	White	Lavender
13	Dark red	Plum
14	Middle blue	Light blue
15	Turquoise	White
16	Light brown	Yellow
17	Black	Dark grey

Pattern:

1. Ch 4, form to ring by slst into first ch. 12 sc into ring. Slst to first sc. fo. (12 sc)

2. We are working the inner petals now. One petal is worked in each rd 1 sc.

   Work in fl only. Start at any sc: [slst, (ch 5, sk 1^st ch, slst back along remaining 4 ch), slst into same rd 1 sc as before], now change to next rd 1 sc, repeat from [ to ] in all remaining rd 1 sc. Slst to first slst. fo. (12 petals)

3. In rd 1 bl only. Fold the petals to the front for a better view. Start at any sc: (sc, sc, 2 sc) x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (16 sc)

4. We are working the outer petals now. One petal ist worked in each rd 3 sc.

   Work in fl only. Fold the inner petals to the front for a better view. Start at any sc: [slst, (ch 5, sk 1^st ch, slst back along remaining 4 ch), slst into same rd 3 sc as before], now change to next rd 3 sc, repeat from [ to ] in all remaining rd 3 sc. Slst to first slst. fo. (16 petals)

5. Work in rd 3 bl only. Again, fold the petals to the front. Start at any sc: (sc, 2 sc)x 8. Slst to first sc, fo. (24 sc)

6. This is the squaring round. Start at any sc: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, dc, 3 hdc, dc] x4. Slst to first dc, do not fo. (6 dc, 3 hdc = 9 st/ side)

7. Slst to corner, ch 1 (loosely worked, does not count as st, just to get height, see note below).

   [( 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, dc in each st of the side] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (13 dc / side)

   Note: for working two rounds with the same colour, I prefer starting the second round with a very loosely worked ch-1 that doesn't count at all. This method does not work for everyone. You can also break the yarn and start again with a standing stitch, or you replace the first st with chains.

   For a more simple flower square, e.g. in 6“, just repeat rd. 7 until your desired size. You will need two more rounds for a 6“ square and a st count of 19. For the complete 12“ square, go on with rd 8:

8. Start at any corner ch-2: [( 3 dccl, picot, ch 2, 3 dccl, picot, ch 2, 3 dccl, picot) = corner made, ch 3, 4 blsc (do not miss the first slightly hidden st), sk 2, (7 dc into next st, should be the middle one of the side), sk 2, 4 blsc, ch 3] x4. Slst to first 3 dccl, fo. (3 3 dccl, 2 ch- 2, 3 picot, 8 blsc, 2 ch- 3, 7 dc = 31 st/ side, corners and ch included)

9. We are switching between rd 7 and 8 now to work our st into. Be careful to work in the indicated st. Start at fl of first rd 7 dc of a side: [fldc in next 4 st; now to rd 8 (the fan): 2 bphdc, 3 bpsc, 2 bphdc; back to rd 7: fldc in last 4 st; back to rd 8: ch 1, bpsc around first 3 dccl (pull picot towards you to make it easier for you), ch 3, bpsc around second 3 dccl, ch 3, bpsc around last 3dccl, ch 1] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (8 fldc, 4 bphdc, 6 bpsc, 2 ch- 1, 2 ch- 3= 28 st/ side, corners and ch included)

10. We are working a lot of bl st now. If you wish more security, you can also work in the third loop, too. Start at first dc of a side: [4 bldc, 2 blhdc, 3 blsc, 2 blhdc, 4 bldc, dc around ch- 1, dc into bpsc, 2 dc around ch- 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) into bpsc = corner made, 2 dc around ch- 3, dc into bpsc, dc around ch-1] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (8 bldc, 4 blhdc, 3 blsc, 10 dc = 25 st/ side)

    Your work might be a bit wobbly now. No problem- we will fix that in the next rd.

11. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 10 bpdc, dc2tog (first leg in hdc before sc, second leg in hdc after sc, sk all sc in between), 10 bpdc (be careful not to work a bpdc around the hdc where the second leg of the dc2tog goes into)] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (20 bpdc, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog = 23 st/ side)

12. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) = corner made, sk hidden st, (sk 1, ch 1, sc) x5, ch 1, sk dc2tog, work popcorn into middle one of skipped rd 10 sc (in front of rd 11), (ch 1, sk 1, sc) x5, sk 1, ch 1] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (14 sc, 12 ch-1, 1 popcorn = 27 st/ side

13. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) = corner made, hdc in next st, now work only in rd 11 skipped st over the rd 12 ch- 1 already there: (ch 1, sk 1, hdc in next skipped rd 11 st) x12, ch 1, sk 1, hdc] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo. (18 hdc, 13 ch-1 = 31 st/ side)

14. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 3 hdc, (dc in rd 12 st, worked over the ch- 1 already there, hdc in next st) x12, dc in next skipped rd 12 st, 3 hdc] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo. (20 hdc, 13 dc = 33 st/ side)

15. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 33 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (2 dc, 33 bpdc = 35 st/ side)

16. Start at any corner ch- 2: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, (sk 1, 2 dc into next st) x17, sk 1] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (36 dc/ side)

17. Start at any corner ch- 2: [2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc), sk first (hidden) st, 36 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo (39 sc/ side)

Weave in all ends. Block your square if desired.

Round by round pictures:

Note: rd 3 and 5 are shown from the wrong side (ws)

A big thank you to my testers Lynne, Jilly and Lettice! It's always helpful to have people that look over a pattern with fresh eyes.

That's it! Have fun! Copyright by Loewenzahm June 2026

Snow Beauty Shawl

This is my first english shawl pattern. I love working shawls and I love making patterns, so it's somehow a must to make more shawl pattern. This one is very easy- just basic stitches and 8 repeating rows. You can repeat them as often as you like- as long as your yarn cake gives you yarn or up to your desired length.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Skill level: advanced beginner

Material:

• yarn cake of your choice (for example Cotton Kings Sultan)

• 4 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the shawl starts in the middle with a small triangle and is growing to the sides to always bigger triangles

• you are working in rows, turn after each row

• the side corners and the middles corners are always worked the same way- see special stitches

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch = chain

• dc = double crochet

• 3dccl = three double crochet cluster

• fo = fasten off

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• sc = single crochet

• st(s) = stitch(es)

• sk = skip

Special stitches

• side corner: work (ch 4, dc) in the first st at the beginning of a row, work (dc, ch 1, dc) in the last st at the end of a row

• middle corner: work (ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1) all in corner ch- 2 of the last row

Pattern:

Row 1

ch 4, slst to form ring.

Work into ring: side corner, middle corner, side corner

Row 2

side corner, dc until middle ch- 2 , midlle corner, dc until last st, side corner

Row 3

repeat row 2

Row 4

side corner, dc into ch- 1, fpdc until next ch- 1, dc in ch- 1, dc, middle corner, dc, dc in ch- 1, fpdc until ch- 1, dc in ch- 1, side corner

Row 5

side corner, (ch 1, sk 1 st, 3 dccl) repeat until ch- 2, middle corner, (3 dccl, ch 1, sk 1) repeat until last st, side corner

Row 6

repeat row 5

Row 7

repeat row 2

Row 8

repeat row 4

Row 9

side corner, (ch 1, sk 1, dc) repeat until ch- 2, (dc, sk 1, ch 1) repeat until last st, side corner

Row 10

side corner, sc until ch- 2, middle corner, sc until last st, side corner

Row 11 until end

Now repeat row 3-10 as many times as desired. I recommend to finish with row 4, 8 or 10.

Copyright February 2026 by Loewenzahm. You may sell items made from this pattern, but not sell or redistribute the pattern itself. This pattern is for free. Please show your finished objects, I really like to see them.

Ravelry: Loewenzahm // Instagram: loewenzahm1

Macorina

Here is the next one of my 6" series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares.

This time I listened to the legendary Chavela Vargas and one of her most iconic songs, Macorina. Her interpretation is bold, emotional, and full of passion – qualities that shaped the character of this square. Just like the song itself, making it a true tribute to her artistry.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: advanced beginner to intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Colour Placement:

I do not provide a specific colour placement for this square, as it is a wonderful opportunity to let your own creativity shine. The only guideline is to change colours after every round. If you prefer to work the square in a single colour, please note that it only works well starting from the squaring round, as you can see in my example.

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch = chain

• dc = double crochet

• 3 dccl = three double crochet cluster stitch

• fo = fasten off

• hdc = half double crochet

• picot = ch3, slst into first ch

• sc = single crochet

• sk = skip

• slst = slip stitch

• st = stitch

Special stitches:

• 3 dc cluster:
  Yarn over, insert hook into stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 loops remain on hook).
  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

• Picot:
  Ch 3, then slst into the first ch made (the one closest to the stitch you started from).

Pattern:

Round 1

Ch 4, close to circle with slst , work ch 3 (replaces first dc) and 11 dc into magic ring. Join with slst to first dc. Slst to first dc, fo.

Round 2
Start in any dc: (slst in one dc, ch 2, 3 dccl into next dc, picot, ch2) × 6. Slst to same dc as first slst, fo.

Round 3
Start at any picot: (1 sc into picot, 5 dc in rd 1 dc where the slst goes into, over the slst) × 6. Slst to first sc, fo.

Round 4
Start at any st: (dc, ch 1) × 36. Slst to first dc, fo. Maybe your work is waving a little bit now. No problem- we will fix that over the next rounds!

Round 5

This is the squaring round – work only in ch-spaces, skip all sts. Start in ch- space directly above a first dc of rnd 3 5-dc group: [(dc, ch 3, dc) = corner made. Into next ch-spaces: (2 hdc), hdc, (2 sc), sc, sc, (2 sc), hdc, (2 hdc)] × 4. Slst to first dc, fo.

Round 6

Start at any corner ch- 3: [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) = corner made, 14 hdc]× 4. Slst to first hdc, fo.

Round 7

Start at any corner ch- 2: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sk first st, (17 sc)] × 4. Slst to first sc, fo.

Yeah, your square is finished now. Just weave in your ends and block your square if necessary. Enjoy!

Round by round pictures:

Thanks to Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) for testing this square for me! Your comments were really helpful!

Copyright August 2025 by Loewenzahm.

Malaika 6" square

Here is the next one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to the great Miriam Makaba and one of my favorite songs of her, Malaika.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: advanced beginner to medium

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Note on Colour Placement:

I do not provide a specific colour placement for this square, as different colour placement is great for getting your own unique square. The only guideline is to change colours after every round – this keeps the design vibrant and highlights the structure of the stitches. If you prefer to work the square in a single colour, please note that it only works well for the last two rounds, as you can see in my example.

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch = chain

• dc = double crochet

• 2dccl = two double crochet cluster

• 3dccl = three double crochet cluster

• fo = fasten off

• fpdc = front post double crochet

• fpsc = front post single crochet

• hdc = half double crochet

• rd = round

• sc = single crochet

• st(s) = stitch(es)

• sk = skip

• sl st = slip stitch

Pattern:

Round 1

Ch 4, close to a circle with sl st. Ch 1 (does not count as st). (2dccl, ch 3) x 4.
Sl st to first st, fo. (4 2dccl, 4 ch-3)

Round 2

Start at any 2 dccl. [fpsc around 2dccl, ch 1, 3dccl (around beginning ch-4, between 2dccl already there and in front of 2 rd 1 ch-3), ch 1] x 4. Sl st to first st, fo. (8 ch-1,4x 3dccl, 4 fpsc)

Round 3

Start at any fpsc. [(dc, ch 2, dc) in fpsc = corner made, hdc around ch-1, fpsc around 3dccl, hdc around ch-1] x 4. Sl st to first st, fo. (per side 2 dc, 2 hdc, 1 fpsc)

Round 4

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1, hdc) x 2, ch 1, sk 1] x 4. Sl st to first hdc, fo. (per side 4 hdc, 3 ch-1)

Round 5

Start in any corner ch- 3. [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) = corner made, (fpsc around next hdc, dc in skipped st of Rd 3) x 3, fpsc around next hdc] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (per side 4 sc, 4 fpsc, 3 dc)

Round 6

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 11 dc (do not miss first hidden st)] x 4. Sl st to first dc, fo. (per side 13 dc)

Round 7

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1, 2dccl) x 6, ch 1, sk 1] x 4. Sl st to first hdc, fo. (per side 2 hdc, 6 2dccl, 7 ch-1)

Round 8

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, (fpsc, dc in sk st of Rd 6 in front of Rd 7 ch-1) x 7, fpsc] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (2 sc, 8 fpsc, 7 dc)

Round 9

Start in any corner ch- 2. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 17 sc (do not miss first hidden st)] x 4. Sl st to first sc, fo. (per side 19 sc)

Weave in all ends.

Yeah, you've finished this little square now!

Round by round pictures:

Thanks to Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) and Lettice for testing. Your notes were really useful!

Copyright August 2025 by Loewenzahm

Memories of Summer

 

Memories of summer

Do you know 'Fredrick', a children's book from Leo Leoni? Frederick is a little mouse, and in summer he is collecting colours, smells, sunlight... to profit from them in deep winter. In winter he is telling other mice from all the colours to give them a feeling of warmth.

This square catches up the spirit of this book. I developed in autumn 2023, without any specific flower in my mind. But full of colours, structure and everything a square can provide and I am writing down everything now in winter 2024. Now, in summer 2025, finally everything is ready, tested and revisted. As it is a very complex square, it really took a lot of time, and I hope, we (my testers and me) found every mistake and unconsitency. If not, please forgive me and ask. I`ll always there for help if needed.

When you work in summer, perhaps you can put some good wishes for the next cold and grey winter in it.

However- have fun with it!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level:

advanced intermediate to advanced (basic stitches, but many; concentration on stitch placement needed), note that it is a very complex pattern!

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 3 dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• bl – back loop

• blsc – back loop single crochet

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• bptr – back post treble crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fl – front loop

• flsc – front loop single crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fptr – front post treble crochet

• fptr2tog – front post treble 2 together

• hdc – half double crochet

• puff – puff stitch (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• sk – skip

• slst – slip stitch

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst into first ch

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

Note:

the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr).

Colourways:

Round	Hot fire colourway	Ethiopian colourway	Cold blue colourway
1	white	white	light grey
2	white	white	light grey
3	light yellow	light yellow	middle blue
4	light red	light red	white
5	light red	light red	white
6	dark red	dark red	sand
7	light red	light red	dark blue
8	wine red	light yellow	light browm
9	yellow	yellow	middle blue
10	dark red	dark red	dark blue
11	white	green	white
12	white	green	white
13	sand	white	sand
14	light yellow	light yellow	light brown
15	yellow	yellow	middle blue
16	dark red	dark red	dark blue
17	light red	green	white
18	wine red	white	sand
19	dark red	white	middle blue
20	light red	white	dark blue

Pattern:

1. Ch 4, close to circle with slst. Ch 1( does not count as st), 4 sc into that circle. Slst into first sc, do not fo. (4 sc)

2. Work into middle circle, over rd 1 st: 8sc. Slst into first sc, fo. (8 sc)

3. Work in fl only, start at any st: slst in that st, (ch 2, 3dccl, picot, ch 2, slst into same st, slst into next st) x8. Fo. (16 ch-2-spaces, 8 3dccl, 8 picot, 16 slst)

4. Work only in bl of rd 2, sk all other st, start in any st: (sc, ch 3, sk 1 st) x4. Slst to first sc, do not fo. (4 sc, 4 ch-3)

5. Work only in rd 4 spaces, sk all st: (slst into next ch-3- space, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, slst into same ch-3- space) x4. fo. (8 slst, 12 dc, 8 ch-1)

6. In this round you will tack down the first 4 leaves of your rd 3 petals. Start in first dc of a 3- dc- fan: [(sc, hdc) into dc, 2 dc into ch-1- space, ch 1, bptr around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl, picot, ch 1, now back to rd 5: 2 dc into next ch-1- space, (hdc,sc) into next dc, slst into rd 4 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo ( 8 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8 ch-1, 4 bptr, 4 picot)

7. In this round you will tack down the last 4 leaves of the rd 3 petals. Start in sc after a slst: [bpsc, 3 bphdc, (ch 1, puff) x2 into ch-1- space, (ch 1, puff) x2 into picot, (ch 1, puff) x2 into next ch-1- space, ch 1, 3 bphdc, sk last st, bpsc around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl] x4. Slst into first st, fo. (8 bpsc, 24 bphdc, 28 ch-1, 24 puff)

8. Start around any last puff of a 6- puff- series: [fpsc around puff, ch 6, fpsc around first puff of next petal, 2 sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into next ch-1- space, sk puff, into next ch-1- space: (4 dc, picot, 3 dc), sk next puff, sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around puff, 2 sc into next ch-1- space] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 fpsc, 4 ch-6, 24 sc, 28 dc, 4 picot)

9. Start in any rd 7 ch-1- space after the last puff of a 6- puff- group, work in front of the rd 8 ch-6: [sc, (3 dc, picot,3 dc) into rd 7 bpsc (the one that is worked into rd 3 3dccl), sc into ch-1- space (before next puff, work in front of rd 8 ch-6); now to rd 8: 4 blsc into next 4 st after the ch-6- space, ch 5 (place behind corner fan), sk all st until the last 4 st before the next ch-6, work 4 blsc into the last 4 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 24 dc, 4 picot, 32 blsc, 4 ch-5)

10. The scs in this round are worked into stitches which already have a blsc worked in. Start in rd 8 st, start in any sc after a rd 8 corner fan: [4 flsc, sk next st, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 sc and rd 9 dc-fan and around rd 8 ch-6, (puff, ch 1, puff) into rd 9 picot, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 dc- fan and rd 9 sc and around rd 8 ch- 6, back to rd 8: sk 1 st, 4 flsc, pull the rd 8 ch- 5 to the front of your work through the gap under the rd 9 fan and work a tr into the ch sp, ch 2, (puff, ch 2, puff) into rd 9 corner picot, ch 2, back to rd 8: tr (worked like tr before)] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (32 flsc. 12 ch- 1, 32 puff, 8 tr, 12 ch-2) Note: Your square will be a bit wavy now. Don't panic- we will made it flat again.

11. We are switching the corners now. The new corners will be between the middle puffs of a 6- puff- group. Start in the gap between the second and the third puff of a 6- puff- group: [dc, fpdc around third and fourth puff together, ch 3, fpdc around third and forth puff together again, dc into gap between fourth and fifth puff, 2 hdc into next ch- 1- space, sc into first sc; now to rd.9 (behind rd 10): sc into sc directly under the next rd 10 sc, sc, 2 sc into ch-5- space (before the first rd 10 tr), 2 sc into ch- 5- space (after the second rd 10 tr); sk 1 st, sc into next 2 sc, now to rd 10: sc into sc before the puff, 2 hdc into ch-1- space (between next two puffs)] x4. Slst to first st, do not fo. (per side: 2 dc, 2 fpdc, 1ch-3, 4 hdc, 9 sc = 18 st/ side)

12. Slst until ch-3- space (the new corner space), ch 1 (does not count as st): [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, 6 sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc] x4. Fo. (per side: 8 hdc, 6 dc, 6 sc = 20 st/ side)

13. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 3, dc)= corner made; 8 bpdc; now in rd 10: sc in ch-2- space before puff, fpsc around puff, 3 sc into next ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into ch-2- space, back to rd 12: sk 3 st, 8 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 2 dc, 16 bpdc, 5 sc, 2 fpsc = 25 st/ side)

14. Start in corner ch-3- space: [7 dc in corner ch-3- space, sk 2 st, (sc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x3, 9 sc, (ch 1, sk 2 st, sc) x3] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 7 dc, 15 sc, 6 ch-1 = 29 st/ side)

15. Start in fourth dc of a 7- dc-group (should be the corner): [(sc,ch 2, sc) = corner made, 2 sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, puff into gap between last dc and first sc, (ch 1, sk 1 sc, puff in ch-1- space) x3, ch 1, sk 2 st, 5 bpsc, ch 1, sk 2 st, (puff into ch-1- space, ch 1, sk sc) x3, puff in gap between last sc and first dc, ch 1, sk first dc, 2 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 10 ch-1, 8 puff, 5 bpsc = 29 st/ side)

16. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc around next 3 st, fptr around rd 13 dc (first one after the corner), ch 1, (fpsc around puff, ch 1) x4, sc in each of first two bpsc, ch 1, fptr2tog (first leg around first part of rd 8 ch 6 {this is the small ch- part before the two round 10 puffs}, second leg around second part of rd 8 ch-6 {this is the small ch-part after the two rd 10 puffs}), ch 1, sk 1 sc (behind fptr2tog just worked), sc in each of last two bpsc, (ch 1, fpsc around puff) x4, ch 1, fptr around rd 13 dc (last dc before the corner), 3 bpsc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 6 bpsc, 12 ch-1, 8 fpsc, 2 fptr, 1 fptr2tog = 35 st/ side)

17. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 4 hdc, fpdc around fptr, (hdc in fpsc, dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space) x4, 2 hdc, puff around fptr2tog (between both legs), 2 hdc, (dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space, hdc) x4, fpdc around fptr, 4 hdc] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo. (per side: 22 hdc, 2 fpdc, 8 dc, 1 puff = 33 st/side)

18. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 5 bpdc, fpdc around fpdc, 10 dc, fpdc around puff, 10 dc, fpdc around fpdc, 5 bpdc] x4. Fo (per side: 22 dc, 10 bpdc, 3 fpdc = 35 st/ side)

19. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 35 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (37 sc/ side)

20. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 7 bpdc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st (do not accidentely sk two st!), 21 dc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st, 7 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 23 dc, 14 bpdc, 2 fptr = 39 st/ side)

Round by round pictures (round 1 to 18, no pictures for rd 19 and 20, as these rounds are pretty easy)

A bit thank you to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Natalie (Sms134 on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry)

That's it! Have fun! Copyright by Loewenzahm August 2025