DIY- kostenlos- for free

Liebe Besucher*innen,
Alle auf diesem Blog gezeigten Dinge habe ich selbst entworfen. Ich teile meine Ideen gern mit Euch und freue mich über alle, die das ebenfalls tun!!!
Es ist für mich absolut selbstverständlich, die Ideen kostenlos mit Euch zu teilen.
Bitte respektiert die DIY- Idee!
Bitte verkauft keine Anleitungen von mir oder Dinge, die Ihr damit angefertigt habt. Und bitte respektiert mein Urheberrecht.
Natürlich dürft Ihr Dinge gerne nachbauen, nachhäkeln - selbst nutzen, weiterverschenken...
Danke! Eure Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Noch ein Wort zum Thema Werbung: Ich möchte mit meinem Blog auf keinen Fall für Produkte werben, sondern für Ideen! Manchmal kommt es aber vor, dass ich z.B. beim upcyclen Dinge benutze, wo noch ein Marken/ Produktname zu sehen ist oder beim Häkeln klar ist, von welchem Produkt die Idee stammt, das lässt sich nicht vermeiden. Bitte trefft in diesem Fall Eure eigenen wohlüberlegten Kaufentscheidungen!

Dear visitors,
Everything I show you on this blog is created by myself. I am happy to share this ideas with you for free.
I want also say thanks to everybody who shares own ideas for free as well!
This DIY idea is very important for me! Please respect this idea and don't sell anything you made from this ideas. And please don't declare this ideas of your own.
But feel free to give things made from these ideas as a gift or to use them for youself.
Thank you! Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Sonntag, 10. Januar 2021

Fallen leaves

The fourth pattern of my 'representing the 4 seasons' series. Here comes the autumn 6“ square. I got the idea for that square in the 'Gardens of Herrenhausen' where I live nearby and spend much of my free time. This autumn I made some pictures there which I love very much. You can see them further down.

Autumn – this means for me nice coloured leaves and misty mornings. I tried to show these things in this little square.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms



Skill level: medium


Material:

  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

    in green (G), sand (S), yellow (Y) and red (R)

  • 5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain

  • slst – slip stitch

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • bphdc – back post half double crochet

  • sc - single crochet

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • dc – double crochet

  • fo – fasten off

  • st – stitch

  • sk - skip

  • bl – back loop

  • sp - space


Special stitches:

  • puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

  • front post puff (fppuff): work like a puff, but put the hook into the indicated stitch the same way you do it when working a normal front post stitch


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.


Pattern:


1.

(S) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle. Do not fo.


2.

(S) (2 sc into the circle , ch 2) x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 4 ch-2)


3.

(G) Start in any ch- 2- sp. [(Hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, 2 bphdc around the sc] x4 . Slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 8 bphdc, 4 ch-2)


4.

(S) Start at any corner. [(Sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sk hidden st, sc, dc into rd 2- sc directly below (this one right to a rd 2- corner), back to rd 3: sk the hidden st, sc into next st] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 sc, 4 dc, 4 ch-2)


5.

(Y) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc)=corner made, ch 1, puff into the sp directly right to the dc from rd 4, ch 1, puff into the sp directly left to the dc from rd 4, ch 1]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 12 ch-1, 4 ch-2, 8 puff)


6.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 4 in this round, it is suggested to work them in front of the rd 5 chain- sts. Start at first corner st. [(Fpsc around rd 5 dc, change to rd 4: {dc, ch 2,dc}, fpsc around rd 5 dc)= corner made, dc into sk st of rd 4, fpsc around puff, fpdc around dc from rd 4, fpsc around puff, dc in sk st from rd 4] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 fpsc, 16 dc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch-2)


7.

(R) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, ch 2, puff into the dc before rd 5- puff, fppuff around rd 5- puff, ch 1, fppuff around rd 5- puff, puff into the dc after rd 5- puff, ch 2] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 8 puff, 8 fppuff,4 ch-1,

12 ch-2)


8.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 6 in this round, it is suggested to work them in front of the rd 7 chain- stitches. Start at first corner st. [(Fpsc around rd 7 dc, change to rd 6: {dc, ch 2,dc}, fpsc around rd 7 dc)= corner made, 2 dc into sk sts of rd 6, fpsc around next 2 puffs, fpdc around fpdc from rd 6, fpsc around next 2 puffs, 2 dc in sk sts from rd 6] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (24 fpsc, 24 dc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch-2)


9.

(Y) Start in any corner. [(Dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, ch 5, (fppuff around next two puff sts from rd 7 together) x2, ch 5] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 dc, 8 ch-5, 8 fppuff, 4 ch-2)


10.

(S) Start in any corner. When you work stitches in rd. 8 in this round, it is suggested to work them around the rd 9 chain- stitches, including the corners. [(Fpsc around rd 9 dc, change to rd 8: {hdc, ch 2,hdc}, fpsc around rd 9 dc)= corner made, 2 hdc into next sk st of rd 8, hdc in next two rd 8 dc, 2 hdc in next rd 8 dc, fpsc around both puffs together, 2 hdc into next sk st of rd 8, hdc in next two rd 8 dc, 2 hdc in next rd 8 dc] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (12 fpsc, 48 hdc, 4 ch-2)


11.

(G) This is a kind of modified surface- stitch round for forming the leaves. You can just work a combination of slst and ch-1 and have a go on your own. Or you follow these instructions: Start with a slst around a fpsc in the middle of any side. [working down the leaf: ch 1, slst around rd 9 chain (directly left to the fppuff), ch 1, slst around rd 7 chain (directly left to the puff), ch 1, slst around round 5 chain (directly left to the puff), ch 2, slst around rd 4 dc (in the middle of one side), now working counterclockwise : ch 1, 2 slst around rd 3 hdc (the ones of the corner), ch 1, slst around rd 4 dc (in the middle of one side), now working up the next leaf: ch 2, slst around rd 5 chain (directly right to the puff), ch 1, slst around rd 7 chain (directly right to the fppuff) ch 1, slst around rd 9 chain (directly right to the fppuff), ch 1, slst to ffpsc in the middle of one side] x4 (45 slst, 32 ch 1, 8 ch 2)

That's it! Have fun!Copyright Dec. 2020 by Loewenzahm

Special thanks to JustJilly for testing! This was a great help for me!


crocheted by JustJilly


The 'Gardens of Herrenhausen' in autumn













Dienstag, 5. Januar 2021

Leaf tendril joining

Hi to you all,

this was a real difficult morning today: When I went to bed yesterday, I thought about to join my next blanket with leaf tendrils. But I didn't find such a connection. So I asked in the great bamcal group (Hi to you! Your help is always great!!!) about any ideas and tested many options this morning. The suggested patterns looked really nice, but nothing was suitable for me - you have to know I am a bit lazy about joing and need something quick, easy AND effective! Something where I don't need to rib off too much if I count wrong and where I can cheat if necessary.

But as so many times before - your help wasn't useless. After checking all ideas and trying and mixing and ribbing off again - in my head grew that idea. And now I am really satisified. This joining is a bit worked like my last years' grain connection , but I modified it for the leaf effect!


General information:

I use US terms in these descriptions!

Abbreviations:
  • st - stitch
  • ch - chain
  • sc - single crochet
  • dc - double crochet
  • slst - slip stitch

For this joining you need the same amount of stitches at each granny square. My stitch count before the joining is 39 stitches per side.

My plan is to join at first as many squares as I need for my desired lenghth. After that, I will choin the pieces togehther until I have my desired width.


Joining two squares at one side:

The joining is worked in three steps:

  1. Work a round in white around each square you want to join. In the corner you work (one stitch, ch 2, one stitch). This round you can use to get your squares at exactly the same size. You can work sc, hdc, dc...; just as you like and need for the right size. It is just important, that your stitch count is 41 at the end of this round. Fasten off.
  2. Now you work another round around each square in light green: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, sk 1 st (the hidden st), (ch 2, sk 1 st, sc)x19, ch2] x4. Fasten off. You should have 21 sc on each side now .
  3. Now you change to dark green and start with the joining itself:  place both squares in front of you, one behind the other with the right side upside. You begin at the square which is in front of  you: Work a slip stich in the first ch- 2- space left to the right corner (NOT in the corner). (Hook from the upside to the downside of the square). Then you chain one . Now work a slip stitch (hook again from the upside to the downside) in the first ch-2 left to the right corner of the square which is further behind of you. ☆ Now again chain 1 and again a slip stitch into the next ch- 2 of the square in frount of you. Chain one again, then a slip stitch to the next ch-2 of the square further behind of you☆. Repeat from ☆-☆, until the last ch-2 space further behind of you (NOT the corner).
It is a little bit like a zipper.


Joining over the corners (Note January 2021: this is not worked by me yet, because I didn't work enough squares to test. That's the way it should work! I tell you when I tested this step. If you are faster than me, please feel free to test and to contact me if there are any problems.)

Aboveis the method to join two squares. When you are finished with the desired length of your blanket, you can join two long pieces together. At this step, you don't have to leave out the corners. Just work over them.

Here is a little scheme:











 

Sonntag, 3. Januar 2021

Maschenmarkierer fürs Häkeln


 Hey Ihr,

nachdem ich jahrelang meine Maschen mit Wollfäden markiert habe (von denen es bei mir meistens mehr als genug gibt), hat mich Mariofreak nun zu richtigen Maschenmarkierern überredet.


 

Ich habe mich ein bißchen im www. umgesehen und Anleitungen für schöne Perlenmodelle zum Stricken gefunden.

Hängen geblieben bin ich bei denen hier: Maschenmarkierer

 Leider ist das dort angewendete Schlaufenprinzip fürs Häkeln völlig ungegeignet. Deshalb habe ich einfach in die Schlaufe noch einen Verschlusshaken für Modeschmuck eingefädelt. Mit dieser kleinen Änderung steht nun dem Häkelglück Nichts mehr im Weg:

 



 



Freitag, 1. Januar 2021

Sun in the sky

 Sun in the sky


This one is the 2nd square from Mariofreak. And the second square for his cushion 'the 4 seasons'.


Pattern uses U.S. Terms





Skill level: medium


Size: 20 cm or 9 inch


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight) in yellow (Y) and different shades of skyblue (B)

  • hook Nr. 6

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations:


  • ch – chain

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sc - single crochet

  • dc – double crochet

  • tc – treble crochet

  • qdc – quadruple crochet

  • bpdc – back post double crochet

  • CS – cross stitch (special stitch, explained below)

  • fo – fasten off

  • st – stitch

  • sk - skip

  • V – V- Stitch (dc, ch 1, dc)


Special stitch:


  • Cross stitch: (Abbreviation: CS): Yarn over 2 times, insert hook through next st, yarn over, pull through st. 4 loops on the hook now. Yarn over. Pull yarn through two loops. 3 loops on the hook now. Yarn over, sk one st, pull hook through next st. Yarn over, pull trough st. 5 loops on the hook. (Yarn over, pull through two loops) four times, until there is only one loop left. Ch 1. Work a normal dc, pull the hook directly through the 'cross' for that dc.


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.


Pattern:


1. (Y) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle.

Do not fo.


2. (Y) 9 dc into the circle. Slst to first st, Do not fo (9 dc).


3. (Y) 18 dc in each dc. Slst to first st. Do not fo (18 dc)


4. (Y) ch 4, (6 CS, ch 6)x6 . Slst to first CS, fo


5. (B) Start at a rd 3 dc where you have worked the second leg of a CS. Working behind all stitches already there. (dc in that dc, bpdc around first leg of rd 4 CS, dc in the rd 3 dc between the two legs, fpdc around second leg)x 6 (18 bpdc, 6 dc)


6. (B) Start in any st: 2 qdc in each st all around (48 qdc)


7. (B) This is the squaring round. Start in any st. [( 2 tc, ch 2, 2 tc)= corner made, 2 dc, hdc, 5 sc, hdc, 2 dc]x4 (16 tc, 16 dc, 8 hdc, 20 sc, 4 ch-2)


8. (B) Start in any corner. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, sk hidden st, 14 dc] x4 . Slst to first st, fo (72 dc, 4 ch-2)


9. (B) Start in any corner. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 6 V- Stitches] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (24 V, 8 dc, 4 ch-2)


surface stitches in colour Y between Rd. 3 / 4


Fix the yellow chains with a little bit of yellow yarn to form the rays of the sun. Suggestion by Loewenzahm: you can do that with your surface stitches as well!


That's it! Have fun! Copyright Dec. 2020 by Mariofreak


Tested by Loewenzahm:





Dienstag, 29. Dezember 2020

Rubin flower

The rubin flower

This one is actually not my pattern – it is designed by my son Mariofreak and only tested by me. So it is a very special one – his first worked granny square ever and at the same time his first own square design. It is curling up a little bit in the middle – just that you know. But for me it is still very great and special! Thank you, Mariofreak!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms


Skill level: easy


Size: 20 cm or 9 inch


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight) in red (R), cyan (C), light green (LG), blue (B), purple (P), dark green (DG)

  • hook Nr. 6

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations:


  • ch – chain

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sc - single crochet

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • htc – half treble crochet

  • dc – double crochet

  • tc – treble crochet

  • dtc – double treble crochet

  • CS – cross stitch (special stitch, explained below)

  • fo – fasten off

  • st – stitch

  • sk - skip

  • bl – back loop

  • fl – front loop

  • V – V- Stitch (dc, ch 1, dc)


Special stitch:


  • Cross stitch: (Abbreviation: CS): Yarn over 2 times, insert hook through next st, yarn over, pull through st. 4 loops on the hook now. Yarn over. Pull yarn through two loops. 3 loops on the hook now. Yarn over, sk one st, pull hook through next st. Yarn over, pull trough st. 5 loops on the hook. (Yarn over, pull through two loops) four times, until there is only one loop left. Ch 1. Work a normal dc, pull the hook directly through the 'cross' for that dc.


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.


Pattern:


1. (R) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle. Do not fo.


2. (R) (2 sc, ch 2)x4. Slst to first st, Do not fo (8 sc, 4 ch-2).


3. (R) slst to the ch-2- space located to the right. (sc into the ch-2 – space, 2 sc, sc into next ch- 2 space, ch 2)x4. Slst to first st, fo (16 sc, 4 ch-2)


4. (DG) Start at the ch-2- space. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, sk hidden st, 3 hdc]x4. Slst to first st, fo (20 hdc, 4 ch-2)


5. (B) Start in any corner. [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, sk hidden st, (sc in fl, sc in bl)x2] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 8 sc in fl, 8 sc in bl, 4 ch-2)


6. (P) Start in any corner. [(tc, ch 2, tc)= corner made, sk hidden st, 2 CS, sk last st] x4. Slst to first st, fo (8 tc, 8 CS, 4 ch-2). At this time, the purple round will cup! Don't worry, that's what it should do for the blossoms.


7. (LG) Start in any corner. [(2 tc, ch 2, 2 tc)= corner made, dc into first st, hdc between next two st, sc between legs of first cross, sc between the kreuzstäbchen, sc between legs of second cross, hdc between next two st, dc into ch-2- space]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 tc, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 12 sc)


8. (B) Start in any corner. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sk 5 st, (5 dtc, ch 3, 5 dtc), sk 5 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo (8 sc, 40 dtc, 4 ch-3, 4 ch-2)


9. (DG) Start in any corner (the ch- 3- space between the dtc- groups). [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) = corner made, sk first st. 3 sc, 2 hdc, dc into space between the 5-tc-group and the sc, 3 dc, dc into the space between the sc and the next 5-tc-group, 2 hdc, 3 sc] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (40 sc, 16 hdc, 20 dc, 4 ch-2)


10. (R) Start in any corner. [(2 htc, ch 2, 2 htc) = corner made. (skip 2 st, 3 htc in next st) x6, sk 1 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo (88 htc, 4 ch-2)


11. (P) Work on the back side. Start in any corner. [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc all around.] x4. Slst to first st, fo (90 sc, 4 ch-2)


12. (B) Work on the front side. Start in any corner. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk 1 st, (V, sk 2 st)x8, sk 1 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo (32 V, 8 dc, 4 ch- 2)


Surface stitches in colour C between Rd. 3 / 4 and between Rd. 9 / 10


That's it! Have fun!Copyright Dec. 2020 by Mariofreak





Tested by Loewenzahm (without surface st):





Sonntag, 13. Dezember 2020

Ziege "Määh"

 Hey Ihr,

ich wollte unbedingt noch eine kleine Ziege für meine Weihnachtskrippe, habe aber keine passende Anleitung gefunden. Aber dank der phantastischen Tipps von Lettice, Lynne und Jilly aus der Ravelry- bamcal- Gruppe war das kein Problem! Diese Gruppe ist immer wieder super! Danke Euch!

So, da ist sie also:



Material:

  • Sockenwolle 4- fädig in dunkelbraun, kamel (ich hatte noch ein bißchen Kamelhaarwolle, normale Sockenwolle geht aber auch) und schwarz (z.B. Schachenmayr Regia)
  • kleiner Rest Flauschgarn in beige (hier: Schöller Fabia)
  • kleiner Rest dicke graue Wolle
  • Füllwatte 
  • Häkelnadel Nr.2 oder 2,5 (je nachdem, wie fest ihr arbeitet)
  • Schere und Stopfnadel
  • Silberdraht
  • Heißkleber
  • Drahtschere

Abkürzungen:
  • LM Luftmasche
  • fm feste Masche
  • Stb Stäbchen
  • pic Picot (3 LM, mit Kettmasche in Basis zu einem Kreis schließen)
  • ab Abnahmen (1 fm über 2 Maschen arbeiten)
  • zun Zunahmen (2 fm in 1 arbeiten)

Anleitung:

gearbeitet wird in Runden. Jede Runde beginnt mit einer Luftmasche und endet mit einer Kettmasche, ohne dies extra zu erwähnen.

Der Körper

Farbe: Kamel

1. 6 fm in Magic Ring

2. zun ringsum (12)

3. (fm, zun)x6 (18)

5. (2 fm, zun)x6 (24)

6.-15. fm (24)

16. (2 fm, ab)x6 (18), mit Füllwatte ausstopfen

17. (fm, ab)x6 (12) 

18. ab (6)

Faden sichern und abschneiden.


Der Kopf:

 Farbe: Beginn in dunkelbraun

1. 6 fm in Magic Ring

2. -3. fm (6), Wechsel zu Farbe kamel

4. (fm, zun)x3 (9)

5.+6. fm (9)

7. (2 fm, zun)x3 (12)

8. (3 fm, zun)x3 (15)

9. (4 fm, zun)x3 (18)

10. (5 fm, zun)x3 (21)

11. 9 fm, (Stb, pic, Stb) in nächste Masche (das ist das Ohr), 9 fm,  (Stb, pic, Stb) in nächste Masche (noch ein Ohr), fm (23 + 2 pic)

12. 4 fm, ab, 3 fm, ab (links und rechts vom Ohr, Ohr dabei leicht nach vorne ziehen), 7 fm,  ab (links und rechts vom Ohr, Ohr dabei leicht nach vorne ziehen), fm (18), mit Füllwatte ausstopfen

13. (fm, ab)x6 (12)

14. ab ringsum (6)

Faden sichern und lang abschneiden.


Der Hals

Farbe: kamel

1. 12 LM, mit Kettmasche zu Ring schließen

2. 15 fm in den Luftmaschenring (15)

3.+4. fm (15)

Faden sichern und abschneiden. Nun den Hals schräg nach vorne- oben zeigend an den Körper nähen. Nun Füllwatte hineingeben, den Kopf draufsetzen und drannähen. Alle Fäden nach hinten ziehen (dort wo das Schwänzchen sein soll).


Fertigstellung des Kopfes und Körpers:

  • Die Augen in schwarz aufsticken. den Schwarzen restfaden auch nach hinten ziehen (zum Schwanz)
  • Für die Hörner die dicke graue Wolle mit einem ca. 6 cm langen Drahrstück verdillen und durch den Kopf ziehen. Die Hörner in Form biegen und mit Heißkleber sichern, fertig formen
  • mit dunkelbrauner Wolle mit Kettmaschen von der Schnauze bis zum Schwanz einen Mittelstrich aufhäkeln.
  • alle Schwanzfäden dann zu einem kleinen Zopf flechten, verknoten, abschneiden.


Die Beine (4x)

Farbe: Beginn in dunkelbraun

1. 6 fm in Magic Ring

2.: fm (6), Farbwechsel zu kamel

3. bis... fm bis zu einer Gesamtlänge von 1,5 cm.

Faden sichern und abschneiden. Beine mit Füllwatte füllen und an den Körper nähen.





Sonntag, 6. Dezember 2020

Sand Mandala

Sand Mandala 

(english version)


The third pattern of my 'representing the 4 seasons' - series. Here comes the summer 6“ square. Oh yes, I know it is already November. So what?! It is dedicated to a little mandala I drew in the sandy beach of my favourite lake, the 'Strandbad Hemmingen'. You can see some pictures of it further down.


Pattern uses U.S. terms

Skill level: medium


Material:

  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“) in white (W), sand (S), Light blue (lb)
  • hook Nr. 5
  • scissors
  • yarn needle


Abbreviations:

  • ch – chain
  • slst – slip stitch
  • fpsc – front post single crochet
  • bphdc – back post half double crochet
  • bpdc – back post double crochet
  • sc - single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • fo – fasten off
  • st – stitch
  • sk - skip
  • bl – back loop


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless something else is said.


Pattern:


1. (W) Ch 4, slst to the first ch to close circle. Do not fo.


2. (W) ch 3 (replaces the first dc), 7 dc into the ring. Slst to first st, fo (8 dc).


3. (S) 2sc between 2 dc of rd 2 . Slst to first st, fo (16 sc)


4. (W) Start at any sc. Bpdc all around. Slst to first st, fo (16)


5. (S) Start in any dc. Work in fl only. [(4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) into first st, sk 1 st, slst, sk 1 st]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (32 dc, 4 slst, 8 ch)


6. (W) Start in first dc after a slst. [(4 bpdc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc into ch-2 space), 4 bpdc, fpsc around rd 4. bpdc directly below the slst)] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (32 bpdc, 16 dc, 4 ch-2)


7. (Lb) Work into the bl of rd 4, behind work, bending petals forward. Start in the R4 sk sc (directly below the (4 dc, ch 2, 4dc)- group of rd. 5). [sc, hdc, dc. Fpsc around fpsc from R6, ch 2, fpsc around same st. Back to rd. 4: sk st, dc, hdc] x4. Slst to first st, fo (4 sc, 8 hdc, 8 dc, 8 fpsc, 4 ch-2)


8. (Lb) Working into R7 sts, start in the ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk first hidden st, 6 dc] x4. Slst to first st, fo (32 dc, 4 ch-2)


9. (S) Start in any corner. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk first hidden st, 8 dc] x4 . Slst to first st, fo (40 dc, 4 ch-2)


10. (Lb) Start in any corner. [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, Do not skip first st. 4 bpdc, 2 dc, 4 bpdc] x4. Slst to first st, fo (32 bpdc, 16 dc, 4 ch-2)


11. (W) Start in any corner. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made. Do not skip first st. 5 hdc, sk 1 dc, 2 dc through the ch 2- space of the petal and between next 2 dc, sk 1 st, 5 hdc] x4. Slst to first st, fo (48 hdc, 8 dc, 4 ch-2)


12. (Lb) Start in any corner. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made. Do not skip first st. 14 bphdc] x4. Slst to first st, fo (8 hdc, 56 bphdc, 4 ch 2)


That's it! Have fun!Copyright Nov. 2020 by Loewenzahm











Fallen leaves

The fourth pattern of my 'representing the 4 seasons' series. Here comes the autumn 6“ square. I got the idea for that square in the...