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Liebe Besucher*innen,
Alle auf diesem Blog gezeigten Dinge habe ich selbst entworfen. Ich teile meine Ideen gern mit Euch und freue mich über alle, die das ebenfalls tun!!!
Es ist für mich absolut selbstverständlich, die Ideen kostenlos mit Euch zu teilen.
Bitte respektiert die DIY- Idee!
Bitte verkauft keine Anleitungen von mir oder Dinge, die Ihr damit angefertigt habt. Und bitte respektiert mein Urheberrecht.
Natürlich dürft Ihr Dinge gerne nachbauen, nachhäkeln - selbst nutzen, weiterverschenken...
Danke! Eure Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Noch ein Wort zum Thema Werbung: Ich möchte mit meinem Blog auf keinen Fall für Produkte werben, sondern für Ideen! Manchmal kommt es aber vor, dass ich z.B. beim upcyclen Dinge benutze, wo noch ein Marken/ Produktname zu sehen ist oder beim Häkeln klar ist, von welchem Produkt die Idee stammt, das lässt sich nicht vermeiden. Bitte trefft in diesem Fall Eure eigenen wohlüberlegten Kaufentscheidungen!

Dear visitors,
Everything I show you on this blog is created by myself. I am happy to share this ideas with you for free.
I want also say thanks to everybody who shares own ideas for free as well!
This DIY idea is very important for me! Please respect this idea and don't sell anything you made from this ideas. And please don't declare this ideas of your own.
But feel free to give things made from these ideas as a gift or to use them for youself.
Thank you! Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Montag, 2. Oktober 2023

Poinsettia Doily

Hi to you all,

I think meanwhile all of you know- I love Ravelry's bamcal group. There is always someone there for helping out, creating new ideas, cheering up and so on. Really incredible vibes of creativity there. This time Chrissy aka Callidrias came up with the idea of a poinsettia doily she needed as a Christmas present. I loved the idea so much that I created one. Here is the result:




Pattern uses U.S. Terms


Size: 29 cm // 11,5“


Skill level: easy to intermediate


Material:


  • #10 cotton thread, for example Supergarne Verena or Aunt Lydia's; colours: red, cream or white, dark green

  • a small amount of golden thread

  • hook: metric size 1,5 // US steel hook size 8

  • scissors

  • thin yarn needle


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • dc2tog – dc two together

  • fo – fasten off

  • pic – picot (ch 3, slst to the first ch)

  • rd – round

  • sc – single crochet

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • st – stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

  • tr2tog – treble two together

  • tr3tog – treble three together



Pattern:


Start with white.


Ch 8, close to circle with slst. Do not fo.


1. 

Ch 1 (does not count as st), 16 sc into circle. Slst to first sc, do not fo.


2. 

Ch 1 (does not count as st), (sc, ch 1) into each st. Slst to first sc, fo.


3.

Gold. Work only in ch- spaces, sk all other st: (sc, ch 1) in each ch- space. Slst to first sc, fo.


4.

White. Work only in ch- spaces, sk all other st: (sc, ch 2) in each ch- space. Slst to first sc, fo.

    → your circle should measure now about 4 cm // 1,5”


5. 

Red. Start in any ch-2- space: [sc, ch 5, sk (sc, ch- 2- space, sc)] x8, slst to first sc, do not fo.


6. 
Slst into next ch-5- space, ch 1 (does not coun’t as st): (sc, ch 3, dc, pic, ch 3, sc into same ch-5- space) x8, slst to first sc, do not fo.


7. 
(2 sc into ch-3- space, ch 3, dc into pic, pic, ch 3, 2 sc into next ch- 3- space, slst between next 2 sc) x8, do not fo.


8. 
(sc in next two sc, 3 sc in ch-3 space, sc in pic, ch 3, 3 sc in ch- space, sc in next 2 sc, slst to slst) x8, omitting last slst. Slst to first sc, fo.

    → your circle should measure now about 10 cm/ / 4”


9.

Green. Start in any Ch-3- Space: [(sc, ch 3, sc in Ch-3- space), ch 3, sk 3 st, slst in next sc, sk 2 st, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch1, dc in slst), sk 2 sc, slst in next sc, ch 3, sk 3 st] x8. Slst to first sc, do not fo.


10.

 [Slst to ch-3-space, ch 3, slst into same ch-3- space, ch 5, dc2tog (first leg in ch- space between first and second dc, second leg in next ch-1- space), pic, ch 5] x8. Slst to first slst, fo.

       → Size: 11 cm //4,5”


11.

White. Start in Ch-3- space: [(dc, ch 1, dc) into ch-3- space, (working over rd 10 ch- 5: tr in space between rd 9 slst and rd 9 first dc of a fan, working over rd 10 ch-5, ch 4, tr into same space), sc in pic, (tr in space between rd 9 last dc of a fan and rd 9 slst, working over rd 10 ch-5, ch 4, tr into same space)] x8. Slst to first dc, do not fo.


12. 

Slst into ch-1- space: [(ch 3 (replaces first dc), ch 1, dc into same ch-1- space), (ch 1, dc) x3 in space between dc and tr, 2 sc in ch- 4 space, sc in tr, ch 5, sc in next tr, 2 sc in ch-4- space, ( dc, ch 1) x3 in space between tr and dc] ×8. Slst to top of ch 3, do not fo.


13.

Slst into ch-1- space: [(ch 3 (replaces first dc), ch 1, dc) into ch-1- space, (ch 1, dc) x2 into next ch-space, sc into next ch- space, ch 4, (dc, ch 1, dc) into ch-5- space, ch 4, sc into second ch- space of next 3- dc- fan, (dc, ch 1) x2 into next space] x8. Slst to top of ch 3, do not fo.


14.

Slst into next ch-1-space (which is the middle ch-1-space of the fan): [(ch 3 (replaces first dc), ch 1, dc) into that ch-1- space, ch 6, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1- space of next (dc, ch- 1, dc), ch 6] x8. Slst to top of ch 3, do not fo.


15. 

Slst into next ch-1- space: [(ch 3 (replaces first dc), ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into ch-1- space, (sc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sc) into ch-6-space] x16. Slst to top of ch 3, do not fo.


16. 

Slst into middle dc of a fan: ch 1( does not count as st), [sc in same st, ch 5, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the dc in the middle between the ch-2- spaces, ch 5] x16. Slst to sc, fo.


17. 

Red. Start in any sc: [sc in sc, sc in ch-5- space, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in dc, ch 1, dc in ch 1, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in dc, ch 1, sc in ch-5] ×16. Slst to first sc, fo.


18.

Green. Start in middle dc of a fan (the dc above a ch 1): (sc, ch 3, tr3tog in 2nd sc, ch 5, tr3tog in same sc, ch 3) x16. Slst to first sc, fo.


19.

White. Start in any sc: [sc, ch 3, dc in tr3tog, ch 3, tr2tog ( first leg in same st, second leg in next tr3tog, ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3] ×16. Slst to first sc, do not fo.


20.

ch 1 (does not count as st), [sc in sc, ch 3, (dc, ch 1, dc) in dc, ch 1, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in tr2tog, ch 1, ( dc, ch 1, dc) in dc, ch 3] ×16. Slst to first sc, fo.



Now weave in all ends. Mind to weave in into same colours ( red into red, green into green, white into white).



Round by round pictures:







That's it! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.


Copyright by Loewenzahm, September 2023


Thanks so much to my testers Dani (danika2407 on ravelry), Chrisi (Callydrias on ravelry) and Vicky (pippin90). You did a very important and not easy job (as I tend to forget brackets, semicolons and so on...)









Sonntag, 16. April 2023

Blüte Monique

This one is named after my mum. I needed a birthday gift for her, and as she loves gardening, flowers and all that stuff, as well as handcrafted things, I created especially for her a sustainable gift box in a flower design. Each part of the flower is fixed on a small magnet. These magnets I put on a metal box. So you have a real pretty box and you can use the magnets for example on your refridgerator.

I used only leftover yarn for this small project, in DK size with a 4 mm hook, You can choose any yarn you find in your stash, as long as the sizes fit together and to your hook size.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms



Material:


  • yarn of your choice

  • hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle

  • 3 little magnets

  • hot glue

  • a little pearl for decoration (if wished)


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • FO – fasten off

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • st – stitch



Special stitches:


Picot: ch 3, slst to the upper loops of the stitch just worked before the ch 3


Popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close.


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc,...)


Pattern:


The blossom



  1. ch 4, close to circle with slst. 8 sc into that circle. Slst to first sc. Do not FO. (8 sc)

  2. 12 sc into the middle circle, over the rd 2 sc already there. Slst to first sc. FO (12 sc)

  3. Work in front loops only. Start in any sc: (slst, ch 3, sk 1 st) x6. Slst to first slst. Do not FO. ( 6 ch- 3- spaces, 6 slst)

  4. Work only in rd 4 ch- 3- spaces: slst into next ch-3- space, (3 sc, picot, 3 sc) x6. Slst to first sc. FO (18 sc, 6 picot)

  5. Start in any 2nd sc of a 3- sc- group before the picot: [sc, ch 1, pull picot in front of ch 1, sc in 3rd sc of a 3 sc- group after the picot, popcorn into rd 3 front loop (where you already worked the rd 4 slst)] x6. Slst to first sc. FO (12 sc, 6 ch-1, 6 popcorn)

  6. We still didn't work in every second stitch of rd 4 AND in all back loops of rd 4. That we will now do for the leaves. I recommend to use green yarn now. Work from the wrong side!


Turn your work. Start in a back loop st now lying in front of a popcorn: [slst, (3 dc, picot, 3 dc) all worked into the next stitch, was has been completely skipped] x6. Slst to first slst. FO.


Weave in all ends.


Fix the blossom with hot glue on the top of your magnet. If you want, you can decorate the middle with a small pearl.


The leaves (work 2 of them)





ch 9, 8 dc in second ch from hook, 2 hdc, 3 sc, picot. Turn your work 180° counterclockwise and work further on to the foundation ch, so that you work in a round: 3 sc, 2 hdc. Slst to first dc. FO.


Weave in ends. Fix every leaf on one magnet.




That's it! Have fun! Copyright April 2023 by Loewenzahm







Samstag, 25. März 2023

Love-in-a-mist





This time I was looking for a late spring/ early summer blossom. What I found is this one: 'Love-in-a-Mist', in germany it's called 'Jungfer im Grünen', means 'Virgin in the green'.

I don't know much about this flower, have to take more care next summer if I see it in the gardens nearby. So I can't show you a picture, that's a pity! My dear Ravelry friend Lettice says she knows it from her childhood, describes it as a bit old fashioned nowadays. We have to make it fashion again, it's worth! Let's start.


Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.


Skill level: intermediate


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  • 5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

  • FO – fasten off

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • hdcV – half double crochet V-stitch (see below)

  • puff – puff stitch (see below)

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • scV – single crochet V-stitch (see below)

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • st – stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

  • trV – treble V-stitch (see below)

  • V – V-stitch (see below)


Special stitches:


4- dc- cluster: 4 dc, worked together into one st/ ch- space


picot: ch 3, slst to all upper loops of the stitch below


puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.


Spike dc: worked like a normal dc, but set stitch into indicated place below and pull to the normal height of the round just worked.


V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st


hdcV: (hdc, ch 1, hdc) into one st


scV: (sc, ch 1, sc) into one st


trV: (tr, ch 1, tr) into one st


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).


Colourways:


Round

Boho Colourway

Lavendula Colourway

1

Rose wood

Dark grey

2

Rose wood

Dark grey

3

Camel

Light grey

4

Sky blue

Lavender

5

Light blue

Purple

6

Royal blue

Red purple

7

Camel

Mint green

8

Rose wood

Dark grey

9

Camel

Mint green

10

Royal blue

Dark grey

11

White

Rose wood

12

Light blue

Purple

13

White

Lavender

14

Camel

Light grey

15

White

Purple

16

Light blue

Rose wood

17

Royal blue

Dark grey

18

Sky blue

Light grey

19

White

Red purple


Pattern:



  1. Note: if you normally start with a magic ring, do not so here. You will need a small space in the middle for the next rounds!

    ch 4, close to circle with slst. 5 sc into that circle. Slst to first sc. Do not FO (5 sc)

  2. Note: After this round, your work will cup a little bit. Do not worry, it will flatten out!

    ch 1 (does not count as st), (puff into sc, ch 1) x5. Slst to first puff. FO (5 puff, 5 ch- 1)

  3. Start in any ch- space: (sc, spike dc into centre circle [over the sc already there, around the chain], picot, sc [into same ch- space as first sc], fpsc around puff) x5. Slst to first sc, FO. (5 fpsc, 10 sc, 5 spike dc, 5 picot)

  4. Work only in fpsc and spikes of the dc, sk all other st. Start in any fpsc: ([slst, ch 3, 4- dc- cluster, picot, ch 3, slst] all in fpsc, ch 2, slst around spike of the dc [on the back side], ch 2) x5. Slst to beginning (into the fpsc), FO. (10 ch- 2, 10 ch- 3, 5 4- dc- cluster, 5 picot, 15 slst)

  5. Note: For the correct placement of the slst look at the detail picture (extra thanks to Lettice for it!)


    Work only in ch- 2, sk all other st. Start in ch- 2 before a petal: (slst around this and the next ch- 2 [the next ch-. 2 is after the petal, the slst itself is sitting just behind the petal as you work the slst into both ch- spaces], slst to ch-2 [after the petal], ch 3, dc4tog [ two legs in this ch- 2, two legs in the next ch- 2], picot, ch 3, slst to same ch- 2 [before the petal]) x5. FO. (15 slst, 10 ch- 3, 5 dc4tog, 5 picot)

  6. Note: work more petals around the second slst of the 3-slst- group (just behind a rd 4 petal, there is a small gap). All other stitches are skipped.

    Start around any second slst: (slst, ch 3, dc4tog, picot, ch 3, slst, ch 2 [behind rd 5 petal]) x5. Slst to first slst, FO. (10 slst, 5 dc4tog, 10 ch- 3, 5 ch- 2, 5 picot)

  7. Start in any round 6 pic. Work only in rd 6, rd 5 and rd 3 pic. Sk all other st: (sc in rd 6 pic, ch 1, tr in rd 3 picot, ch 3, sc in rd 5 pic, ch 3, tr in same rd 3 picot as before, ch 1) x5. Slst to first sc, FO (10 tr, 10 ch- 1, 10 ch- 3, 10 sc)

  8. Start in any sc made into a rd 5 pic: (sc, 4 sc into ch- 3, sk tr, sc into ch- 1, sc into sc, sc into ch- 1, sk tr, 4 sc into ch- 3) x5. Slst to first sc, FO. (60 sc)

  9. Note: the central flower motif is ready now. For an even more misty effect you can work this optional round. If you don't want to, just go on with round 10. You can also skip this round until the end and decide afterwards if you want to work it. You could also try to use thinner yarn for this round. It's definetely a 'playing- around'- round.

     You could also try a long chain that you pull through the picots of the last loose petals. Then you can open and close that petals with a bow. Perhaps also hiding a little love in the blossom, a heart, a second flower, some money if you give as a present, a nice note… Whatever you do...Work only in rd 3 and rd 4 picot.

    Start in a rd 3 pic (between the st already there): (slst to rd 3 picot, ch 2, slst to rd 4 picot, ch 2) x5. Slst to first slst, FO. (10 ch – 2, 10 slst).

  10. Start in a sc above a rd 5 picot: (V, sk 2) all around. Slst to first V, FO (20 V)

  11. Note: this is the squaring round. Mark your 4 corners with a stitch marker. Therefore place a double- layer petal on the top.  When the double layer petal is at the top, the first V is directly above the double petal. Count on from there. Put first stitch marker in the gap between the second and third V counted from there. Place further stitch markers in the gaps after every 5 Vs .

    Start at V before your first stitch marker: (V into V, trV into marked corner, V into V, hdcV into next V, scV into next V, hdc V into next V) x4. Slst to first V, FO. (per Side: 2 V, 2 hdcV, 1 scV; plus 1trV for the corner)

  12. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc] into corner, [sc between next two V, 2 sc into ch- space of next V] x5, sc between next two V) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. (20 sc per side)

  13. Start in corner ch- space: ([slst, ch 3, dc2tog, picot, ch 3, slst] into corner, [ch 1, sk 1, st, sc into next st, ch 1, {slst, ch 3, dc2tog, picot, ch 3, slst} into rd 11 space between two V {over the sc already there}] x6, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc, ch 1) x4. Slst to first slst, FO. (per side: 6 petals, 7 sc, 14 ch- 1 plus 1 petal for corner)

  14. Start in any corner - picot: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into pic, sc around ch 3 [of the petal], [trV into sc, sc into pic] x6, trV into sc, sc around ch 3) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. (per side: 10 sc, 7 trV)

  15. Start in any corner ch- space: ([hdc, ch 2, hdc] into corner, hdc in next 2 st, [2 hdc into ch- space of the V, fpdc around sc] x6, 2 hdc into V, hdc in next two st) x4. Slst to first hdc, FO. (per side: 20 hdc, 6 fpdc)

  16. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] into corner, sk 1 st, 25 dc into third loop) x4. Slst to first dc, FO. (29 dc per side)

  17. Start in corner ch- space: ([V, ch 2, V] into corner, [sk 2 st, V] x9, sk 2 st) x4. Slst to first dc, FO (11 V per side)

  1. Note: if your square is already at about 11,5“ at this point, you can work the V- stitches with hdc instead of dc. That avoids to get a slightly oversized square.

    Start in corner ch- space: ([V, ch 2, V] into corner, [V between next two V] x10 ) x4. Slst to first dc, FO. (12 V per side)

  2. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] into corner, sk 1 st, sc in each st and ch- space) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. Weave in all ends. (39 sc per side)


Yeah! You got it! Block if necessary and have fun with it.


Round by round pictures:




Thanks to my testers Lynne, Lettice and Katrina for your help!

Copyright Feb- Mar 2023 by Loewenzahm











Samstag, 21. Januar 2023

Helen's flower

Once again I offer to you a square especially designed for the bamcal. I love this CAL and all those wonderful people from all over the world. I learn so much from you all and we have so much fun, that’s just amazing!!!

Like the last years, I planned to design a flower according to the release month, which should be August. But then things and circumstances changed, and so you get right now a pretty late summer flower: Botanically known as Helenium autumnale Mariachi, English Helen’s flower and also known by the name 'Sneeze weed', German Sonnenbraut (which means something like bride of the sun, a fun fact at this point is that I married last August).

For people who are interested in plant based medicine: Some people use it when you have an influenza or a cough, maybe that's the reason for the 'Sneeze weed' name. Another usage is killing intestinal worms. But please, don't use it without asking your doctor – it's also said to be quite poisonous.

Okay, enough chatter. Let’s crochet now. Have fun altogether!



Pattern uses U.S. Terms


Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.


Skill level: intermediate


Material:

  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  • 5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

  • bpdc – back post double crochet

  • bpsc – back post single crochet

  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

  • dc4tog – double crochet 4 together

  • fo – fasten off

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • fpdc2tog – front post double crochet 2 together

  • fphdc – front post half double crochet

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • puff – puff stitch (see below)

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • st – stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

  • V – V-stitch (see below)

  • wide V – wide V- stitch (see below)


Special stitches:

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

wide V: (dc, ch 2, dc) into one st


Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tc). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).


Colourways:


Round

Calming blue colourway

Lavendula Colourway

1

sky blue

light grey

2

light blue

purple

3

atol

mint green

4

royal blue

lavender

5

royal blue

lavender

6

royal blue

lavender

7

atol

red purple

8

light blue

light grey

9

navy

dark grey

10

sky blue

rosewood

11

navy

mint green

12

light blue

purple

13

sky blue

light grey

14

atol

rosewood

15

dark blue

dark grey

16

light blue

red purple

17

sky blue

lavender

18

royal blue

red purple




Pattern:


  1. ch 4, close to circle with slst. 8 sc into that circle (8 sc)

  2. (puff into sc, ch 1 [this one is worked in addition to the closing ch- 1]) x8. Slst to first puff, fo (8 puff, 8 ch- 1)

  3. Start in any ch- space: (2 hdc into ch- space, fphdc around puff) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 hdc, 8 fphdc)

  4. Start in any hdc before a fphdc: (bpsc around hdc, ch 1, sk fphdc, bpsc around hdc, ch 1, don't sk st) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 bpsc, 16 ch- 1)

  5. Work only in ch- spaces, sk all bpsc. Start in any ch- space: (4 hdc, ch 1) x16. Slst to first st, fo (64 hdc, 16 ch- 1)

    At this point, your work might wave a little bit. Don't worry about that. It will flatten over the next rounds.

  6. Start in first hdc of any 4- hdc group: (dc4tog over the 4 hdc of one 4- hdc- group, ch 3) x16. Slst to first dc4tog, fo (16 dc4tog, 16 ch- 3)

  7. Start in the very middle of a rd 6 dc4tog (2 legs on the left side, 2 legs on the right side): (sc into that space, sc into ch- 3- space, ch 3; change to rd 5: slst into ch- 1- space [between two dc4tog]; change to rd 4: fpdc around skipped bpsc; back to rd 5: slst in same ch- 1- space as before, ch 3; back to rd 6: sc into same ch- 3- space as before) x16. Slst to first sc, fo (48 sc, 32 ch- 3, 32 slst, 16 fpdc)

  8. Work only in rd 6 ch- spaces. Sk all other st. Start in any ch- 3- space: (3 hdc into ch- 3- space, dc2tog [first leg into same space, second leg into next space] x16. Slst to first hdc, fo (48 hdc, 16 dc2tog)

  9. This is the squaring round. All st are worked into the 3rd loop.

    Start at any dc2tog: (4 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, [2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] into next st= corner made, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (per side: 4 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 7 sc = 19 st)

  10. Start in any corner space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space= corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (21 sc per side)

  11. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([V, ch 1, V]= corner made, sk 3 st, [V, sk 2 st] x6) x4. Slst to first dc of first V, fo (8 V per Side = 24 st)

  12. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. Start in any corner ch- 1 (in the middle between the two V): ([puff, ch 2, puff] into corner space= corner made, ch 1, puff around ch of first V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 2, sc between this V and the next V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, 6 dc between next 2 V, sc between next two V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, ch 2, puff around ch of this V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 1) x4. Slst to first puff, fo (per side: 6 puff, 4 ch- 1, 4 ch- 2, 4 sc, 6 dc)

  13. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. This is the most complicated round. Take your time, read carefully and make it step by step. Start in any puff before a corner: (fpsc around puff, [dc in round 11 corner ch- space, between the puffs already there, ch 2, dc in same rd 11 corner space]= corner made, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around rd 11 dc [first leg of the first V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two rd 11 dc [second leg of the first V, first leg of the second V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around second leg of second rd 11 V, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together, bpsc around second dc of rd 12 6-dc-group, bpsc into next 3 dc, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together [the rd 11 V after the rd 12 sc] , fpdc around first leg of next rd 11 V, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two dc [second leg of first V and first leg of next V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around next rd 11 dc [second leg of V]) x4.Slst to first fpsc, fo (per side: 2 dc, 4 fpdc, 2 fpdc2tog, 6 fpsc, 2 wide V, 4 bpsc)

  14. Be careful not to forget any stitches. Especially the ones behind the puffs are slightly hidden and easily forgotten. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([2 hdc, ch 1, 2hdc] into corner space= corner made, sk first [hidden] st, hdc in next 7 st, 2 puffs in ch- 2 of the wide V, sc in next 6 st, 2 puffs in ch-2 of the wide V, 8 hdc) x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (19 hdc, 4 puffs, 6 sc = 29 st)

  15. If you find it too difficult to find the 3rd loop, especially the first one of this round, you can work bpdc instead. But if you do so, take care of the right stitch count and work ch 1 before the puff – because you need 12 stitches before the first puff). Start in any corner space: ([2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] into corner space= corner made, dc in 3rd loop of next 10 st [don't miss the first slightly hidden one and the last one directly before the puff, which is actually the 3rd loop of the puff itself], fphdc around next 2 puffs, 6 bpdc, fphdc around next 2 puffs, sk one st, dc in 3rd loop of next 9 st) x4. Slst to first dc, fo (23 dc, 4 fphdc, 6 bpdc = 33 st)

  16. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (35 sc per side)

  17. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (37 sc per side)

  18. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (39 st per side)


Round by round pictures:




Charts for round 7:




Charts for round 13:




Thanks for Lettice, Lynne/ hrdnglynne and Jilly/ JustJilly2 and Jacqui/ tiggerbee for testing, cheering up, giving more ideas and proof reading. Thanks for Jacqui/ tiggerbee for providing charts. With every input from you all, the pattern became even more nicely than I could imagine! 

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Dec 2022/ Jan 2023 by Loewenzahm






Poinsettia Doily

Hi to you all, I think meanwhile all of you know- I love Ravelry's bamcal group. There is always someone there for helping out, creatin...