Loewenzahm: Daffodil Star

Daffodil Star

This one is my square for the 2021 bamcal. It is the first time for me to design a square especially for this group. I am really excited and hope I wrote everything down understandably and clearly.

When I was designing this square, I was thinking of spring in the famous 'Gardens of Herrenhausen'. I am one of the lucky people that live really close to these gardens – I can go there for a walk in the afternoon, if I like. In spring, there are planted lots of daffodils. It is so incredibly pretty, if you ask me. You can see some pictures of it below!

So I hope you have fun with this square and you can feel and smell the early spring time now!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn. Please check your size after Round 21. It might be necessary to stop at this point for the right size, depending on how tightly you are crocheting.

Skill level: medium

Material:

yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“) in white (W), light yellow (LY), dark yellow (DY), peach (PE), red (Re), light green (LG), dark green (DG)

5 mm hook
scissors
yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

Some impressions of the 'Gardens of Herrenhausen'

bl – back loop
bphdc – back post half double crochet
bpsc – back post single crochet
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fl – front loop
fphdc – front post half double crochet
fpsc – front post single crochet
fo – fasten off
hdc – half double crochet
rd - round
sc – single crochet
slst – slip stitch
sk – skip
st – stitch
tc – treble crochet

Special stitch:

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Pattern:

1. (Re) 6 sc into magic ring. slst to first sc. do not fo.

2. (Re) in bl only: ch 1 (doesn't count as a st), 2 sc in each st. slst to first st, fo (12 sc).

3. (LY) work in the fl of rd.1, start in any st: (slst,ch 3)x6. slst to first slst, fo (7 slst, 6 ch- 3)

4. (PE) start at any sc of rd.2. (hdc, 2 hdc into next st)x6 . slst to first st, fo (18 hdc)

5. (W) start in any hdc. bpsc all around. slst to first st, fo. (18 bpsc)

6. (DY) in this round, it is suggested to work your bpsc shallow. (bpsc in any bpsc, ch 7, sk 2 bpsc)x6. slst to first st, do not fo. (6 bpsc, 6 ch- 7)

7. (DY) start in the first ch- 7- space: (4 sc, hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc, 4 sc into the ch- 7 space)x6 (one petal worked in every ch 7- space). slst to first st, fo. (48 sc, 12 hdc, 12 dc, 6 ch- 2)

8. (Re) start in a sc of rd 5, situated right of a rd- 6 bpsc: (6 dc into this sc, change to rd 6: fpsc around the bpsc, back to rd. 5: sk 2 st)x6. slst to first st, fo.(36 dc, 6 fpsc)

9. (PE) in this round, it is suggested to work your bpsc shallow. start in the fpsc of rd 8 AND the sc directly behind (that should be the first sc of a yellow petal): (sc, now continue in rd 8: 6 bpsc around the 6 dc)x 6. slst to first st, fo. (6 sc, 36 bpsc)

10. (LY) in this round, it is suggested to work your bpsc shallow. start in the ch- 2- space of rd 7: [sc, tc into fourth bpsc of a 6 bpsc- group of rd 9, back to the ch- 2- space of rd. 7: sc, 5 bpsc around the next 5 st of rd 7, ch 1, sk 2 st of rd. 7 (the last st of one petal and the first st of the next petal), 5 bpsc around the next 5 st]x6. slst to first st, fo. (6 tc, 12 sc, 60 bpsc)

11. (LG) start in the ch- 1- space of rd 10: [ tc, in bl only: (2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc), fpsc around the tc, (in bl only 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc)] x6. slst to first st, fo. At that point, your work might be slightly wavy . That's no problem, it will flatten, when you work further on! (6 tc, 6 fpsc, 24 sc, 24 hdc, 24 dc)

12. (W) start in any st: bphdc all around. slst to first st, fo. (84 bphdc)

13. (DG) This round and the next round are the squaring rounds. It is suggested to work them in the same colour! Look at the picture where you should position your corners if you want your daffodil a little bit 'twisted' in the square, as if just fallen on the meadow. To make it easier, you can mark your corners. start in the bphdc directly above a fpsc: [(tc, ch 2, tc)= corner made, 4 dc, 3 hdc, 6 sc, 3 hdc, 4 dc]x4. slst to first st, do not fo. (8 tc, 4 ch- 2, 32 dc, 24 hdc, 24 sc)

14. (DG) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc)= corner made, sc in next st (which might be hidden), dc, hdc, 16 sc, hdc, dc, sc]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (88 sc, 4 ch- 2, 8 hdc, 8 dc)

15. (W) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, 26 bphdc]x4. slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 4 ch- 2, 104 bphdc)

16. (LY) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, sk first (hidden) st, (ch 3, sk 3 st, puff)x6, ch 3, sk 3 st]x4. slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 4 ch- 2, 28 ch- 3, 24 puff)

17. (LG) start in ch 2- space of corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, fpsc around hdc, (3 dc into the 3 sk hdc of rd 15, leaving the ch- 3 behind your work, fpsc around puff)x6, 3 dc into the sk st of rd 15, fpsc around hdc]x4. slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 4 ch- 2, 84 dc, 32 fpsc)

18. (DY) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner made, (ch 3, sk 3 st, puff in next st {this is the second dc of a 3 dc- group} AND the ch-3 from rd 17 at the same time {this makes the ch- space a little bit smaller, which is more comfortable for your toes when your blanket is ready!} )x7, ch 3]x4. slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 4 ch- 2, 32 ch- 3, 28 puff)

19. (LG) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, fpsc around hdc, (3 dc into sk st of rd 17, leaving the ch- 3 from round 18 behind your work, fpsc around puff)x7, 3 dc in to the sk st of rd 17, fpsc around hdc]x4. slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 4 ch- 2, 96 dc, 36 fpsc)

20. (DG) in this round, it is suggested to work into rd 19 st AND around rd 18 ch- 3 at the same time. start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, 35 sc]x4. slst to first st, fo. (148 sc, 4 ch- 2)

21. (W) start in ch- 2- space of corner:[(hdc, ch 2, hdc)= corner, 37 bphdc]x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 hdc, 4 ch- 2, 148 bphdc). Please measure your work at this point. Perhaps it is already big enough. If not, you can work the next two rounds as well (some pink flowers looking through the last rest of the melting snow. But if your snow already is melted away, feel free to stop your square here ;-))

22) (PE) start in ch- 2- space of corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner, (ch 1, sk 1 st, sc)x19, ch 1, sk 1 st]x4. slst to first st, fo. (84 sc, 4 ch- 2, 80 ch- 1)

23) (W) start in ch 2- space of corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc into rd 21- corner, between the st already there)= corner made, (change to rd 22: sc, change to rd 21: hdc into the sk st, around the ch 1 from rd 22)x20, change to rd. 22: sc]x4. slst to first st, fo. (88 hdc, 4 ch- 2, 84 sc)

Round by round pictures