Flower Bouquet

This is my contribution to the bamcal 2025 and an homage to early spring flowers. I combined different flowers for you: lesser celandine, daisy, tulip, dandelion. Flowers that mean spring for me. The result is a big new flower. Or, if you want to say so- a flower bouquet.

I did not use the original colours, as in the bamcal we all use our unique ones. So feel free to use whatever you want. If you want to use the colours the plants really have: lesser celandine is yellow, daisy white and yellow, tulip exists in many ways and dandelion seeds are light brown. But it's not necessary at all. The only thing you have to take care is not to fo when I say so, as some effects need more than one round.

The pattern contains 22 rounds, which is quite a big amount, and it looks very complex. But please don't fear- most of the time I used basic stitches and many of the rounds are so easy and repetet that I even decided not to provide a stitch count in these rounds.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Stitches and abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 2trcl – 2 treble cluster 

• 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• 3 fpdccl – 3 front post double crochet cluster 

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• picot (see below)

• popcorn (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• special picot (see below)

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst into the 2 strands (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close

Special picot: ch 3, slst into the 4 loops (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

Notes

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

• Every round ends with a slst to join

• Every round ends with fo, unless otherwise stated.

• I recommend to work all back post stitches shallow (but there's no need to).

• Stitch counts are only indicated in complex rounds.

Colourways:

Round	Ethiopian colourway	Lavendula colourway
1	dark red	turquoise
2	middle green	middle green
3	middle green	middle green
4	dark yellow	lavender
5	dark yellow	lavender
6	light red	white
7	light red	white
8	middle green	middle green
9	middle green	middle green
10	light yellow	purple
11	light yellow	purple
12	dark yellow	blackberry
13	middle green	white
14	middle green	white
15	white	turquoise
16	white	turquoise
17	middle green	middle green
18	dark yellow	brown
19	middle green	middle green
20	dark yellow	brown
21	white	white
22	white	grey

Pattern:

Lesser celandine

1. Ch 5, slst to form a ring (or magic ring as a start, just as you prefer), ch 1 (does not count as a st), work (sc, 2 trcl, ch 1) x8 into the ring. Pull all your 2trcl to the front.

Lesser celandine leaves

2. Start in any 2trcl, work only in 2trcl, sk all other st: (fpsc around 2trcl, ch 2) x8. Do not fo.

3. [Slst into next ch 2- space, ch 1 (very loosely worked, just to get height), (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) into ch 2- space, slst into fpsc, now working in sk sc of rd 1 and over ch- 2 of rd 2: sc, slst into rd 2 fpsc] x4. (Total stitch count: 20 dc, 12 slst, 4 ch- 1, 4 picot, 4 sc)

Daisy

4. Work only in rd 3 sc, sk all other st. Start in any sc: (sc, ch 4) x4. Pull ch- 4 behind the lesser celandine leaves. Do not fo.

5. Work only in ch- 4- Sk all sc. Slst into next ch- space, ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (8 dc in ch- 4) x4.

6. Start in any rd 3 picot: [sc into picot, now back to rd 5: 8 bpsc (start in the 5^th dc of an 8 dc- group, do not sk any st except the beginning ch- 1] x4. Do not fo. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the next rounds.

7. Ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (3 dccl, special picot, ch 1, sk 1) x18.

Daisy leaves

8. Work only in sk st of rd 6. sk all other st. Start in any rd 6 sk bpsc: [dc (worked in front of rd 7 ch- 1), ch 2 (pull behind rd 7 special picot)] x18. Do not fo.

9. [ch 2, work 3fpdccl around next dc , ch 2, slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (before the petal), ch 1 (pull behind work), slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (after the petal)] x18.

Tulip

10. Work only in ch- 1 of last round. Sk all other st: (sc into ch- 1, ch 3) x18. Pull ch- 3 behind leaves. Do not fo.

11. Work only in ch- 3, sk all other st: [In first ch- 3 work: (slst, sc, 2 hdc, dc), in second ch- 3 work: (dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, dc), in third ch- 3 work (dc, 2 hdc, sc, slst)] x6. (Stitch count per petal: 2 slst, 2 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 1 picot)

12. Start in any sc at the beginning of a petal: (7 bphdc, ch 1, hdc in picot, ch 1, 7 bphdc, sk slst, fphdc around rd 10 sc, back to rd 11: sk slst) x6. (Stitch count per petal: 14 bphdc, 2 ch- 1, 1 hdc, 1 fphdc)

Background (part 1)

13. Start at any fphdc: [{(dc, ch 1) x5, dc, all in fphdc}, sk 4 st, 3 bpsc, ch 3, sk (ch 1, hdc, ch 1), 3 bpsc, sk 4 st] x6. Do not fo. (Stitch count per repetition: 6 dc, 5 ch- 1, 6 bpsc, 1 ch- 3)

14. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: slst to third ch- 1 of a fan, ch 1 (does not count as a st). (sc in third ch of a fan, ch 3, dc into space between fan and first bpsc, ch 3, sc in rd 12 hdc and around rd 13 ch- 3 together, ch 3, dc in space between last bpsc and next fan, ch 3) x6. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the squaring rounds.(stitch count per repetition: 2 sc, 2 dc, 4 ch- 3)

Squaring rounds

15. First of all mark your corners. Look at the 4 leaves at round 3. The corners are (more or less) directly above their picots. There should be a sc of round 14 (2 of them go into a rd 13 fan, 2 of them go into a hdc of rd 12 petal). Place stitch markers. (See round by round picture for rd 14 for the marked corners). Start in any corner sc: [(tr, ch 3, tr) in sc, 4 dc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 sc into next ch- space, sc into next st, 4 sc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 dc into next ch- space] x4. Do not fo. (Stitch count per side: 2 tr, 1 corner ch- 3, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 9 sc = 27 st/ side)

16. Slst into corner ch- 3, ch 1 (does not count as a st): [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch- space, hdc, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 9 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, hdc] x4. (Stitch count per side: 14 hdc, 8 dc, 9 sc, 1 corner ch- 2 = 31 st/ side)

Dandelion buds and seeds

17. Start in any corner ch- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc, ch 3, sk 3 st, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc] x4 (Stich count per side: 2 hdc, 1 corner ch- 2, 8 ch- 1, 20 bphdc, 1 ch- 3 = 33 st/ side)

18. Start in any rd 17 corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, now all into rd 16: ch 3, (dc in unworked st from rd 16, in front of rd 17 ch- space, ch 2) x4, ch 1, popcorn in second unworked st of a set of 3 in rd 16 (sk st directly before and after the popcorn), ch 3, (dc in next rd 16 unworked st, ch 2) x4, ch 1] x4. (Stitch count per side: 2 sc, 2 ch- 3, 8 ch- 2, 2 ch- 1, 8 dc, 1 popcorn = 35 st/ side)

19. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc into next st; now to rd 17 (work in unworked st, don't miss first st): 3 hdc, (ch 1, sk rd 18 dc, hdc in next 2 skipped st) x4; now around rd 17 and 18 ch- space together: hdc, ch 1, sk popcorn, hdc; now again in rd 17: (2 hdc in unworked st, ch 1, sk rd 18 dc) x4, 3 hdc; back to rd 18: sc in sc] x4 (Stitch count per side: 4 sc, 24 hdc, 11 ch- 1, 1 corner ch- 2 = 37 st/side)

20. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in rd 18 popcorn, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1] x4 (Stitch count per side: 2 hdc, 2 fpdc, 6 ch- 1, 3 dc, 8 V- stitch = 37 st/ side

Background (part 2)

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk 1 st, dc in ch- 1. dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1 (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, (2 dc in ch- 1 of middle fan) x2, (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, dc in ch- 1, dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1, dc in hdc] x4 (Stitch count: 37 dc/ side)

          This and the next rounds are good rounds to adapt your size if needed!

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc to the end of the side] x4. (Stitch count 39 st/ side)

Yeah, you got it! Weave in all ends and be happy!

Round by round pictures:

Lettice, Jilly and Berniece: Thanks a lot for testing for me!

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2025 by Loewenzahm