Helen's flower

Once again I offer to you a square especially designed for the bamcal. I love this CAL and all those wonderful people from all over the world. I learn so much from you all and we have so much fun, that’s just amazing!!!

Like the last years, I planned to design a flower according to the release month, which should be August. But then things and circumstances changed, and so you get right now a pretty late summer flower: Botanically known as Helenium autumnale Mariachi, English Helen’s flower and also known by the name 'Sneeze weed', German Sonnenbraut (which means something like bride of the sun, a fun fact at this point is that I married last August).

For people who are interested in plant based medicine: Some people use it when you have an influenza or a cough, maybe that's the reason for the 'Sneeze weed' name. Another usage is killing intestinal worms. But please, don't use it without asking your doctor – it's also said to be quite poisonous.

Okay, enough chatter. Let’s crochet now. Have fun altogether!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

• dc4tog – double crochet 4 together

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpdc2tog – front post double crochet 2 together

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• puff – puff stitch (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• V – V-stitch (see below)

• wide V – wide V- stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

wide V: (dc, ch 2, dc) into one st

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tc). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

Colourways:

Round	Calming blue colourway	Lavendula Colourway
1	sky blue	light grey
2	light blue	purple
3	atol	mint green
4	royal blue	lavender
5	royal blue	lavender
6	royal blue	lavender
7	atol	red purple
8	light blue	light grey
9	navy	dark grey
10	sky blue	rosewood
11	navy	mint green
12	light blue	purple
13	sky blue	light grey
14	atol	rosewood
15	dark blue	dark grey
16	light blue	red purple
17	sky blue	lavender
18	royal blue	red purple

Pattern:

1. ch 4, close to circle with slst. 8 sc into that circle (8 sc)

2. (puff into sc, ch 1 [this one is worked in addition to the closing ch- 1]) x8. Slst to first puff, fo (8 puff, 8 ch- 1)

3. Start in any ch- space: (2 hdc into ch- space, fphdc around puff) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 hdc, 8 fphdc)

4. Start in any hdc before a fphdc: (bpsc around hdc, ch 1, sk fphdc, bpsc around hdc, ch 1, don't sk st) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 bpsc, 16 ch- 1)

5. Work only in ch- spaces, sk all bpsc. Start in any ch- space: (4 hdc, ch 1) x16. Slst to first st, fo (64 hdc, 16 ch- 1)

   At this point, your work might wave a little bit. Don't worry about that. It will flatten over the next rounds.

6. Start in first hdc of any 4- hdc group: (dc4tog over the 4 hdc of one 4- hdc- group, ch 3) x16. Slst to first dc4tog, fo (16 dc4tog, 16 ch- 3)

7. Start in the very middle of a rd 6 dc4tog (2 legs on the left side, 2 legs on the right side): (sc into that space, sc into ch- 3- space, ch 3; change to rd 5: slst into ch- 1- space [between two dc4tog]; change to rd 4: fpdc around skipped bpsc; back to rd 5: slst in same ch- 1- space as before, ch 3; back to rd 6: sc into same ch- 3- space as before) x16. Slst to first sc, fo (48 sc, 32 ch- 3, 32 slst, 16 fpdc)

8. Work only in rd 6 ch- spaces. Sk all other st. Start in any ch- 3- space: (3 hdc into ch- 3- space, dc2tog [first leg into same space, second leg into next space] x16. Slst to first hdc, fo (48 hdc, 16 dc2tog)

9. This is the squaring round. All st are worked into the 3^rd loop.

   Start at any dc2tog: (4 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, [2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] into next st= corner made, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (per side: 4 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 7 sc = 19 st)

10. Start in any corner space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space= corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (21 sc per side)

11. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([V, ch 1, V]= corner made, sk 3 st, [V, sk 2 st] x6) x4. Slst to first dc of first V, fo (8 V per Side = 24 st)

12. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. Start in any corner ch- 1 (in the middle between the two V): ([puff, ch 2, puff] into corner space= corner made, ch 1, puff around ch of first V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 2, sc between this V and the next V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, 6 dc between next 2 V, sc between next two V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, ch 2, puff around ch of this V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 1) x4. Slst to first puff, fo (per side: 6 puff, 4 ch- 1, 4 ch- 2, 4 sc, 6 dc)

13. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. This is the most complicated round. Take your time, read carefully and make it step by step. Start in any puff before a corner: (fpsc around puff, [dc in round 11 corner ch- space, between the puffs already there, ch 2, dc in same rd 11 corner space]= corner made, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around rd 11 dc [first leg of the first V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two rd 11 dc [second leg of the first V, first leg of the second V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around second leg of second rd 11 V, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together, bpsc around second dc of rd 12 6-dc-group, bpsc into next 3 dc, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together [the rd 11 V after the rd 12 sc] , fpdc around first leg of next rd 11 V, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two dc [second leg of first V and first leg of next V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around next rd 11 dc [second leg of V]) x4.Slst to first fpsc, fo (per side: 2 dc, 4 fpdc, 2 fpdc2tog, 6 fpsc, 2 wide V, 4 bpsc)

14. Be careful not to forget any stitches. Especially the ones behind the puffs are slightly hidden and easily forgotten. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([2 hdc, ch 1, 2hdc] into corner space= corner made, sk first [hidden] st, hdc in next 7 st, 2 puffs in ch- 2 of the wide V, sc in next 6 st, 2 puffs in ch-2 of the wide V, 8 hdc) x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (19 hdc, 4 puffs, 6 sc = 29 st)

15. If you find it too difficult to find the 3^rd loop, especially the first one of this round, you can work bpdc instead. But if you do so, take care of the right stitch count and work ch 1 before the puff – because you need 12 stitches before the first puff). Start in any corner space: ([2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] into corner space= corner made, dc in 3^rd loop of next 10 st [don't miss the first slightly hidden one and the last one directly before the puff, which is actually the 3^rd loop of the puff itself], fphdc around next 2 puffs, 6 bpdc, fphdc around next 2 puffs, sk one st, dc in 3^rd loop of next 9 st) x4. Slst to first dc, fo (23 dc, 4 fphdc, 6 bpdc = 33 st)

16. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (35 sc per side)

17. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (37 sc per side)

18. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (39 st per side)

Round by round pictures:

Charts for round 7:

Charts for round 13:

Thanks for Lettice, Lynne/ hrdnglynne and Jilly/ JustJilly2 and Jacqui/ tiggerbee for testing, cheering up, giving more ideas and proof reading. Thanks for Jacqui/ tiggerbee for providing charts. With every input from you all, the pattern became even more nicely than I could imagine! 

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Dec 2022/ Jan 2023 by Loewenzahm

Calming blue border

Calming blue border

At the moment I make a few 12“ squares that I want to use as cushions. As the squares are a little bit too small for that, I created a border that is perfect for biggifiying 12“ squares with a stitch count of 39.

You can biggify other sizes as well. All you need, is a stitch count dividibel through 3. If you want to biggify a 6“ square with a stitch count of 19, you can just skip the first hidden stitch. The pattern is only four rounds. It is constructed in a way to have a stitch count dividable through 3 in the end as well. So if you want, you can make the border twice for even bigger squares. It is also possible to stop after each round. All rounds have a flat edging, so you can always join. You see- many possibilities for your own creativity.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“ squares)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc3tog – back post double crochet 3 together

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Calming blue colourway

Round
1	sky blue
2	light blue
3	petrol
4	royal blue

Pattern:

1. start in any corner st/ space: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into corner, (ch 1, bpdc3tog over next 3 st, ch 1), repeated until the last st of the side] x4. Slst to first dc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 43 st)

2. start in any corner ch- space [(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) into corner, (ch 1, hdc2tog {first leg in first ch- space which is still the corner space , second leg into next ch- space}, ch 1), repeated until the last ch- space of this side (already the rd 1 corner ch- space)] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 47 st)

3. Start in any corner ch- space: [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into corner, sk hidden st, sc, 2 sc into next ch-space, (V around rd 1 and 2 ch-space), repeated until the ch- space before the last hdc2tog, 2 sc into next rd 2 ch- space, sc into next 2 st (including the slightly hidden one)] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 53 st)

4. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner, sk first hidden st, 4 sc, (fpdc around both legs of rd 2 hdc2tog, 2sc into ch- space of rd 3 V), repeated until last rd 3 V, fpdc around both legs of rd 2 hdc2tog, sc into next 6 st] x4. Slst to first sc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 54 st)

Round by round pictures:

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2023 by Loewenzahm

Little Pearl Dishcloth

 Hi,

 I love working dishcloths - such quick, easy and relaxing projects. And it's so much better for the environment to use handmade and washable dishcloths.

 This one is worked with 2 different types of dc yarn ( cotton or acrylic) used together and a 5mm hook. So it works up very quickly.

 

 

 

Abbreviations: ( using US terms)

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sc - single crochet

st - stitch

That's what you do:

Ch 30

1. start in second chain from hook, work sc until end of the row (29 sc)

2. Ch 1 ( counts as stitch here and in all following rows), (sc, ch 1, sk 1 st)×13, 2 sc. Turn your work (29 st)

3. Ch 1, sc, (dc over the row 2 ch 1into the skipped row 1 st, sc)×13, sc into last st. Turn your work. (1 ch, 13 dc, 15 sc)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until the desired size. For me until row 29.

Work one row of sc.

For the border I finished one of the two yarns and worked two threads of the staying one at the same time. Then work one sc in each stitch/ row in a round. For the corners work (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc). Finish off and sew in remaining ends.

 

Marina 6"

 Marina

Here comes the next part of my actual 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love both of them. And if you like, you can hear to their songs while working the squares. We start with 'Marina' – named after the italian reggae singer Marina P. For a starter, I recommend you to listen to her album 'Soul Radio'.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Colour placement: I took only different kinds of blue, grey and white to give the square a 'seaside' touch. Colour was changed every round. But that is definetely a no must. Feel free to place your colours however you like. There is much texture in it, so I am sure, even a single coulour version will look nice.

Pattern:

1. Start with a magic ring. Work into it: 8 sc. Slst to first st. fo (8 sc)

2. (bpdc, ch 2) x8. Slst to first st. fo (8 bpdc, 8 ch 2)

3. (fpdc around bpdc, 3 dc into ch 2) x8. Slst to first st. fo, (8 fpdc, 24 dc)

4. bphdc in each st around. Slst to first st. fo. (32 bphdc).

5. This is the squaring round. All stitches are worked between the bphdc stitches. Start between any stitches: [(tr, ch 2, tr) between one st = corner made, 2 dc, hdc, sc, hdc, 2dc] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (8 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 4 corners)

6. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 dc between every st of a side (8 dc in total)] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (32 dc, 4 corners)

7. [(2hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 hdc between every st of a side (11 hdc in total ] x4. Slst to first st. fo (44 hdc, 4 corners).

8. [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 bpdc into around each st] x4. Slst to first st. fo (60 bpsc, 4 corners; final st count per side:19)

   Now weave in ends.

That's it! Have fun! Copyright May 2022 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Jamie (beaglegirl2) and Ellen (tickleelmo) for your help!

Mar Azul

 Mar Azul

I have started a new 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love by both of them. And if you like, you can hear to their songs while working the squares. We start with 'Mar Azul' – named after a song of the great morna singer Cesaria Evora from the Capverdian Islands.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Colour placement: I took only different kinds of blue, green and white to give the square a 'seaside' touch. Colour was changed every round (unless round one and two). But that is definetely no must. Feel free to place your colours however you like. There is much texture in it, so I am sure, even a single coulour version will look nice.

Pattern:

1. Start with a magic ring. Work into it: 8 sc. Slst to first st. fo (8 sc)

2. [(sc, ch 2, sc) into one st, sc] x4. Slst to first st. fo (12 sc, 4 ch 2)

3. [ 3 sc into ch 2, sk 1 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into next st, sk 1 st] x4 Slst to first st. fo, (12 sc, 16 dc, 4 ch 2)

4. [ 3 sc into ch 2, bphdc, bpdc, sk 1 st, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into next st (should be the sc), sk 1 st, bpdc, bphdc] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (12 sc, 8 bpdc, 8 bphdc, 16 dc, 4 ch 2). On this point, your square might cup a little bit. Don't worry. We will make it even in the next round.

5. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch 2 = corner made (corner will stay here from now on), don't skip hidden st, 4 bpdc, 1 fpdc around 3 sc together (creates a mini bobble), 4 bpdc] x4.Slst to first st. fo. (8 dc, 32 bpdc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch 2)

6. [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) into ch 2, don't skip hidden st, 6 hdc, fphdc around fpdc, 6 hdc] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (64 hdc, 4 fphdc, 4 ch 2)

7. [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) into ch 2, don't skip hidden st, 8 bphdc, fphdc around fphdc, 8 bphdc] x4. Slst to first st. fo (72 bphdc, 4 fphdc, 4 ch 2). Final st count per side: 19

   Now weave in ends.

That's it! Have fun! Copyright May 2022 by Loewenzahm. Thanks to my testers Claire, Ellen and Jamie! It's wonderful that there are people all over the world helping each other in this never ending story of creativity!

Märzenbecher

 

First of all I have to say thanks to all the bamcal team to give me once more the opportunity to design a square for you!

Like last year, I will present you a square for March. I decided to choose again one of the early spring flowers for the center. Last year we had the daffodil. This year it is the spring snowflake ('Märzenbecher' in german, 'Leuconum vernum' is the latin botanical name). I love how they are searching their way to the last bit of snow and bringing back the power of nature in our lives. I tried to interpret that in this 12“ square. Hope you enjoy!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc3tog – dc 3 together

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fptr – front post treble crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

Special stitches:

P: picot: ch 3, slst into the top front loops of the stitch directly under it (see picture):

hdc cluster (= hdc, fpdc, hdc together): yarn over, insert hook into next dc, yarn over, pull through (3 loops on the hook), yarn over, hook around sc (similar to the way of a fpdc), yarn over, pull through (5 loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (4 loops on the hook), yarn over, insert hook into next dc, yarn over, pull through (6 loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all 6 loops.

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Colour placement: For the original spring snowflake effect, please work Rd 1,6 and 13 in white and Rd 2, 7 and 14 in light green. All other colour placements are up to you and your own creativity ;-)

Pattern:

1. Colour: white; start with a magic ring. Work into it: (dc3tog, P, ch 2)x6, slst into first dc3tog (not into the P). fo

   (6 dc3tog, 6 P, 6 ch-2)

2. Colour light green, start with two standing bpsc around any dc3tog, pulling the P of round 1 in front of your work; (ch 3, 2 bpsc around next dc3tog)x6, omitting the last 2 bpsc. Slst to first bpsc. fo.

   (12 bpsc, 6 ch-3)

3. Work only around the ch-2 and ch-3 of rd 1 and 2 together. Sk all other st. Start in any ch space: [(hdc, ch 1, hdc, ch 1, hdc) into one ch space, ch 1]x6. Slst to first hdc. fo. (18 hdc, 18 ch-1)

4. Work only in ch spaces: 2 sc in each ch-1 space. Slst to first sc. fo. (36 sc)

5. This is a squaring round. Start with your first corner, work this corner in a sc directly above the central hdc of any 3 hdc group of rd 3: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, bpdc around next st, bphdc, 4 bpsc, bphdc, bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc. fo (1 corner, 2 bpdc, 2 bphdc, 4 bpsc per side)

6. Colour white, start in any corner: [(dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog, P, ch 2, dc3tog) in corner = corner made; ch 2, skip 2 st, sc in next st, ch 2, skip 2 st, (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) into next st, ch 2, skip 2 st, sc, ch 2, sk 1 st] x4. Slst to first dc3tog. fo. (5 dc3tog, 1 P, 7 ch-2, 2 sc per side)

7. Colour light green, start at any corner: (2 bpsc around the middle dc3tog, pulling the P of round 6 in front of your work, ch 4, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 4, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 4, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 4, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 4) x4. Slst to first bpsc. fo. (6 bpsc, 5 ch-4 per side)

8. Work only in rd 6 ch spaces and pic, leave all rd 7 st behind your work. Start in any P: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into pic = corner made, (3 hdc into next ch space from rd 6) x7] x4. Slst to first sc. fo. (2 sc, 1 ch-2, 21 hdc per side)

9. Start in a rd 7 ch space after a corner: [3 sc into the ch space, 3 sc into next ch space, (tr, ch 1, tr, ch1) into next ch space; change to rd 8: fptr into hdc directly below (should be the middle one of the middle- side hdc group), P; back to rd 7, work in the same ch space you just worked before (ch 1, tr, ch 1, tr), 3 sc into next ch space, 3 sc into last ch space] x4. Slst to first sc. fo. (12 sc, 4 tr, 4 ch-1, 1 P, 1 fptr per side)

10. The P from rd 9 is the new corner. The corner will stay in this position from now on. Start in any P: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in pic = corner made, dc into next 10 stitches, including chs; now change to rd 8: sc into ch-2 space (should be the old corner); in rd 9: dc into next 10 ch and st (don't skip a st from rd 9)] x4. Slst to first dc. fo. (1 corner, 24 dc, 1 sc per side)

11. Start in any corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, sk first (hidden) st, (hdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x5, hdc cluster (= hdc, fpdc, hdc together) over the next 3 st (special st, see above), (ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc) x5, sk last st] x4. Slst to first hdc. fo. (1 corner, 12 hdc, 12 ch-1, 1 hdc cluster per side)

12. Start in hdc after a corner hdc (the second one of a side): {[sc, dc in sk rd 10 st (in front of rd 11 ch-1)] x4, ch 3, fphdc around rd 11 hdc cluster, ch 3, [dc in next sk rd 10 st (after a rd 10 hdc), sc] x4, ch 5} x4. Slst to first sc. fo. (8 sc, 8 dc, 2 ch-3, 1 ch-5, 1 fphdc per side)

13. Colour white, start in any corner: [ (dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog, pic, ch 2, dc3tog) in corner around rd 11 and 12 ch spaces = corner made (same corner like in rd 6), ch 2; change to rd 11: (sc into ch-1 from rd 11 behind work, first one directly behind the rd 12 dc; ch 1, sk 1 st) x3, sc into ch-1; change to rd 11 and 12 together: dc3tog into ch space; ch 2, fpsc around rd 12 fphdc, ch 2; around rd 11 and 12 together: dc3tog; change to rd 11: (sc into next ch-1 behind work, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, ch 1, sk 1 st] x4. Slst to first dc3tog. fo. (1 corner, 4 ch-2, 8 sc, 7 ch-1, 2 dc3tog, 1fpsc per side)

14. Colour light green, start in middle 3dctog of any corner: [(bpsc, ch 2, bpsc) around dc3tog = corner made; ch 2, bpsc around dc3tog, ch 3, sk two ch spaces, 3 dc into next ch space, ch 3, bpsc around next dc3tog, 2 dc into next two ch spaces of rd 12 and 13 together, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 3, sk 1 ch space, 3 dc into next ch space, ch 3, bpsc around next dc3tog, ch 2] x4. Slst to first bpsc. fo. (1 corner, 2 ch-2, 4 ch-3, 4 bpsc, 10 dc per side)

15. Start in any corner ch space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 3 hdc (first into bpsc, others into ch space), sc into bpsc, ch 1; change to rd 12: dc3tog into the 3 rd 12 st directly below (should be dc, sc, dc), ch 1; back to rd 14: sc into the middle one of the 3 dc group, ch 1; back to rd 12: dc3tog into the 3 rd 12 st directly below (should be dc, sc, dc), ch1; back to rd 14: bpsc around next the 6 st in the middle, ch 1; into rd 12: dc3tog into the 3 st directly below (should be sc, dc, sc), ch 1; back to rd 14: sc into the middle one of the 3 dc group, ch 1; back to rd 12: dc3tog into the 3 st directly below (should be sc, dc, sc), ch 1; back to rd 14: sc into bpsc, 2 hdc into ch space, sk last bpsc] x4. Slst to first hdc. fo. (1 corner, 5 hdc, 4 sc, 6 bpsc, 4 dc3tog, 8 ch-1 spaces per side)

16. Stitches are worked into stitches and ch-1 spaces in this round. Start in any corner: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, 12 dc, 6 hdc, 11 dc] x4. Slst to first dc. fo. (33 st per side)

17. Start in any corner: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made; (ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc) x16, ch 1] x4. Slst to first hdc. fo. (35 st per side)

18. Start in any corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, (sc in next st, dc in sk st from rd 16 in front of rd 17 ch space) x17, sc] x4. Slst to first sc. fo. (37 st per side)

19. Start in any corner: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 37 bpsc] x4. Slst to first sc. fo. (39 st per side)

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Feb 2022 by Loewenzahm

Round by round pictures

Notes to the pictures:

I am so sorry for that, but in the end I found some things that are not totally fine about the pictures. But as they are marginal, I think you will manage to work your square nevertheless without problems. So I decided to leave the pictures and just tell you where you have to take care:

Round 7: this picture shows the back side instead of the front side.

Round 18 and 19: these pictures don't match exactly at the corners.

Kokosnuss - Seifenschale

 Hey Ihr,

bei uns gibt es einen spanischen Supermarkt, der hat ganz hervorragendes Eis: in der Orange, in der Zitrone, in der Mango, in der Ananas und eben in der Kokusnuss. Kennt Ihr bestimmt auch, oder? Bei mir weckt dieses Eis Kindheitserinnerungen und inzwischen läuft es mir immer mal wieder über den Weg. auch wenn ich schon aus Kostengründen auf das vom Spanier schwöre.

Auf jeden Fall waren bei unserem letzten Besuch in eben diesem Supermarkt alle Sorten außer Kokosnuss alle. Das ist einerseits schade, denn mein Favorit sind definitiv die Zitrusfrüchte. Andererseits war Kokoseis auch seeeeehr lecker, und dann hatte ich noch diese tolle Schale in der Hand. Irgendwas muss sich damit doch machen lassen, oder?

Naja, beim ersten Eis ist mir noch Nichts eingefallen, aber irgendwann war unsere Flüssigseife alle (ich glaube, seit letztem Jahr ist unser Seifenverbrauch um ca. 1000 % gestiegen, geht Euch das auch so?). Und nachdem ich nur sehr sehr wenige Seifensorten vertrage und keine Lust hatte, schon wieder zu bestellen, und dann noch der Seifenspender echt nicht mehr schön aussah, fiel mir ein, dass ich noch aus dem letzten Urlaub so eine tolle handwerklich hergestellte Schafsmilchseife zu Hause hatte. Aber kein Seifenschälchen. Tja, und da war die Idee geboren - wie wäre es mit einer Seifenschale aus Kokosnuss?

Nachdem aber die Kokosnuss an sich etwas wackelig ist, brauchte ich noch einen Fuß. denn habe ich aus Paketschnur gehäkelt. war innerhalb von 15 Minuten fertig (die zeit zum Eis essen mit eingerechnet).

 

Und so geht das Ganze:

1. Eis herauslöffeln und genießen (schön, wenn der tollste Arbeitsschritt gleich am Anfang kommt, oder?)
2. Paketschnur und eine Häkelnadel 6 mm schnappen.
3. 18 Luftmaschen anschlagen und mit einer Kettmasche zu einem Kreis schließen.
4. Nun in der Runde häkeln, Jeweils eine feste Masche in die nächsten drei Maschen, dann zwei feste Maschen in eine Masche. Am Ende der Runde solltet ihr 24 Maschen gehäkelt haben. Mit einer Kettmasche schließen.
5. In der nächsten Runde geht Ihr folgendermaßen vor: *(2 feste Maschen in die erste Masche, eine feste Masche in die nächste) noch zweimal wiederholen. 6 feste Maschen*. von *-* noch einmal wiederholen. Runde wieder mit einer Kettmasche schließen.
6. Schnur abschneiden und vernähen. Kokosschale in den Ring stellen und die Seife hinein platzieren