DIY- kostenlos- for free

Liebe Besucher*innen,
Alle auf diesem Blog gezeigten Dinge habe ich selbst entworfen. Ich teile meine Ideen gern mit Euch und freue mich über alle, die das ebenfalls tun!!!
Es ist für mich absolut selbstverständlich, die Ideen kostenlos mit Euch zu teilen.
Bitte respektiert die DIY- Idee!
Bitte verkauft keine Anleitungen von mir oder Dinge, die Ihr damit angefertigt habt. Und bitte respektiert mein Urheberrecht.
Natürlich dürft Ihr Dinge gerne nachbauen, nachhäkeln - selbst nutzen, weiterverschenken...
Danke! Eure Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Noch ein Wort zum Thema Werbung: Ich möchte mit meinem Blog auf keinen Fall für Produkte werben, sondern für Ideen! Manchmal kommt es aber vor, dass ich z.B. beim upcyclen Dinge benutze, wo noch ein Marken/ Produktname zu sehen ist oder beim Häkeln klar ist, von welchem Produkt die Idee stammt, das lässt sich nicht vermeiden. Bitte trefft in diesem Fall Eure eigenen wohlüberlegten Kaufentscheidungen!

Dear visitors,
Everything I show you on this blog is created by myself. I am happy to share this ideas with you for free.
I want also say thanks to everybody who shares own ideas for free as well!
This DIY idea is very important for me! Please respect this idea and don't sell anything you made from this ideas. And please don't declare this ideas of your own.
But feel free to give things made from these ideas as a gift or to use them for youself.
Thank you! Loewenzahm (Alexandra Zaminer)

Donnerstag, 7. August 2025

Memories of Summer

 

Memories of summer


Do you know 'Fredrick', a children's book from Leo Leoni? Frederick is a little mouse, and in summer he is collecting colours, smells, sunlight... to profit from them in deep winter. In winter he is telling other mice from all the colours to give them a feeling of warmth.


This square catches up the spirit of this book. I developed in autumn 2023, without any specific flower in my mind. But full of colours, structure and everything a square can provide and I am writing down everything now in winter 2024. Now, in summer 2025, finally everything is ready, tested and revisted. As it is a very complex square, it really took a lot of time, and I hope, we (my testers and me) found every mistake and unconsitency. If not, please forgive me and ask. I`ll always there for help if needed.


When you work in summer, perhaps you can put some good wishes for the next cold and grey winter in it.


However- have fun with it!



Pattern uses U.S. Terms


Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.


Skill level:

advanced intermediate to advanced (basic stitches, but many; concentration on stitch placement needed), note that it is a very complex pattern!


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  • 5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • 3 dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

  • bl – back loop

  • blsc – back loop single crochet

  • bpdc – back post double crochet

  • bphdc – back post half double crochet

  • bpsc – back post single crochet

  • bptr – back post treble crochet

  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • fl – front loop

  • flsc – front loop single crochet

  • fo – fasten off

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • fptr – front post treble crochet

  • fptr2tog – front post treble 2 together

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • puff – puff stitch (see below)

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • sk – skip

  • slst – slip stitch

  • st – stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

Special stitches:


picot: ch 3, slst into first ch


puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.


Note:


the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr).




Colourways:


Round

Hot fire colourway

Ethiopian colourway

Cold blue colourway

1

white

white

light grey

2

white

white

light grey

3

light yellow

light yellow

middle blue

4

light red

light red

white

5

light red

light red

white

6

dark red

dark red

sand

7

light red

light red

dark blue

8

wine red

light yellow

light browm

9

yellow

yellow

middle blue

10

dark red

dark red

dark blue

11

white

green

white

12

white

green

white

13

sand

white

sand

14

light yellow

light yellow

light brown

15

yellow

yellow

middle blue

16

dark red

dark red

dark blue

17

light red

green

white

18

wine red

white

sand

19

dark red

white

middle blue

20

light red

white

dark blue






Pattern:


  1. Ch 4, close to circle with slst. Ch 1( does not count as st), 4 sc into that circle. Slst into first sc, do not fo. (4 sc)

  2. Work into middle circle, over rd 1 st: 8sc. Slst into first sc, fo. (8 sc)

  3. Work in fl only, start at any st: slst in that st, (ch 2, 3dccl, picot, ch 2, slst into same st, slst into next st) x8. Fo. (16 ch-2-spaces, 8 3dccl, 8 picot, 16 slst)

  4. Work only in bl of rd 2, sk all other st, start in any st: (sc, ch 3, sk 1 st) x4. Slst to first sc, do not fo. (4 sc, 4 ch-3)

  5. Work only in rd 4 spaces, sk all st: (slst into next ch-3- space, dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc, slst into same ch-3- space) x4. fo. (8 slst, 12 dc, 8 ch-1)

  6. In this round you will tack down the first 4 leaves of your rd 3 petals. Start in first dc of a 3- dc- fan: [(sc, hdc) into dc, 2 dc into ch-1- space, ch 1, bptr around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl, picot, ch 1, now back to rd 5: 2 dc into next ch-1- space, (hdc,sc) into next dc, slst into rd 4 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo ( 8 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8 ch-1, 4 bptr, 4 picot)

  7. In this round you will tack down the last 4 leaves of the rd 3 petals. Start in sc after a slst: [bpsc, 3 bphdc, (ch 1, puff) x2 into ch-1- space, (ch 1, puff) x2 into picot, (ch 1, puff) x2 into next ch-1- space, ch 1, 3 bphdc, sk last st, bpsc around middle dc of rd 3 3dccl] x4. Slst into first st, fo. (8 bpsc, 24 bphdc, 28 ch-1, 24 puff)

  8. Start around any last puff of a 6- puff- series: [fpsc around puff, ch 6, fpsc around first puff of next petal, 2 sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into next ch-1- space, sk puff, into next ch-1- space: (4 dc, picot, 3 dc), sk next puff, sc into ch-1- space, fpsc around puff, 2 sc into next ch-1- space] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (16 fpsc, 4 ch-6, 24 sc, 28 dc, 4 picot)

  9. Start in any rd 7 ch-1- space after the last puff of a 6- puff- group, work in front of the rd 8 ch-6: [sc, (3 dc, picot,3 dc) into rd 7 bpsc (the one that is worked into rd 3 3dccl), sc into ch-1- space (before next puff, work in front of rd 8 ch-6); now to rd 8: 4 blsc into next 4 st after the ch-6- space, ch 5 (place behind corner fan), sk all st until the last 4 st before the next ch-6, work 4 blsc into the last 4 st] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (8 sc, 24 dc, 4 picot, 32 blsc, 4 ch-5)

  10. The scs in this round are worked into stitches which already have a blsc worked in. Start in rd 8 st, start in any sc after a rd 8 corner fan: [4 flsc, sk next st, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 sc and rd 9 dc-fan and around rd 8 ch-6, (puff, ch 1, puff) into rd 9 picot, (puff, ch 1, puff) into space between rd 9 dc- fan and rd 9 sc and around rd 8 ch- 6, back to rd 8: sk 1 st, 4 flsc, pull the rd 8 ch- 5 to the front of your work through the gap under the rd 9 fan and work a tr into the ch sp, ch 2, (puff, ch 2, puff) into rd 9 corner picot, ch 2, back to rd 8: tr (worked like tr before)] x4. Slst to first st, fo. (32 flsc. 12 ch- 1, 32 puff, 8 tr, 12 ch-2) Note: Your square will be a bit wavy now. Don't panic- we will made it flat again.

  11. We are switching the corners now. The new corners will be between the middle puffs of a 6- puff- group. Start in the gap between the second and the third puff of a 6- puff- group: [dc, fpdc around third and fourth puff together, ch 3, fpdc around third and forth puff together again, dc into gap between fourth and fifth puff, 2 hdc into next ch- 1- space, sc into first sc; now to rd.9 (behind rd 10): sc into sc directly under the next rd 10 sc, sc, 2 sc into ch-5- space (before the first rd 10 tr), 2 sc into ch- 5- space (after the second rd 10 tr); sk 1 st, sc into next 2 sc, now to rd 10: sc into sc before the puff, 2 hdc into ch-1- space (between next two puffs)] x4. Slst to first st, do not fo. (per side: 2 dc, 2 fpdc, 1ch-3, 4 hdc, 9 sc = 18 st/ side)

  12. Slst until ch-3- space (the new corner space), ch 1 (does not count as st): [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 2 hdc, 3 dc, hdc, 6 sc, hdc, 3 dc, 2 hdc] x4. Fo. (per side: 8 hdc, 6 dc, 6 sc = 20 st/ side)

  13. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 3, dc)= corner made; 8 bpdc; now in rd 10: sc in ch-2- space before puff, fpsc around puff, 3 sc into next ch-1- space, fpsc around next puff, sc into ch-2- space, back to rd 12: sk 3 st, 8 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 2 dc, 16 bpdc, 5 sc, 2 fpsc = 25 st/ side)

  14. Start in corner ch-3- space: [7 dc in corner ch-3- space, sk 2 st, (sc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x3, 9 sc, (ch 1, sk 2 st, sc) x3] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 7 dc, 15 sc, 6 ch-1 = 29 st/ side)

  15. Start in fourth dc of a 7- dc-group (should be the corner): [(sc,ch 2, sc) = corner made, 2 sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, puff into gap between last dc and first sc, (ch 1, sk 1 sc, puff in ch-1- space) x3, ch 1, sk 2 st, 5 bpsc, ch 1, sk 2 st, (puff into ch-1- space, ch 1, sk sc) x3, puff in gap between last sc and first dc, ch 1, sk first dc, 2 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 10 ch-1, 8 puff, 5 bpsc = 29 st/ side)

  16. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc around next 3 st, fptr around rd 13 dc (first one after the corner), ch 1, (fpsc around puff, ch 1) x4, sc in each of first two bpsc, ch 1, fptr2tog (first leg around first part of rd 8 ch 6 {this is the small ch- part before the two round 10 puffs}, second leg around second part of rd 8 ch-6 {this is the small ch-part after the two rd 10 puffs}), ch 1, sk 1 sc (behind fptr2tog just worked), sc in each of last two bpsc, (ch 1, fpsc around puff) x4, ch 1, fptr around rd 13 dc (last dc before the corner), 3 bpsc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (per side: 6 sc, 6 bpsc, 12 ch-1, 8 fpsc, 2 fptr, 1 fptr2tog = 35 st/ side)

  17. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, 4 hdc, fpdc around fptr, (hdc in fpsc, dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space) x4, 2 hdc, puff around fptr2tog (between both legs), 2 hdc, (dc around rd 15 and rd 16 ch-1- space, hdc) x4, fpdc around fptr, 4 hdc] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo. (per side: 22 hdc, 2 fpdc, 8 dc, 1 puff = 33 st/side)

  18. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 5 bpdc, fpdc around fpdc, 10 dc, fpdc around puff, 10 dc, fpdc around fpdc, 5 bpdc] x4. Fo (per side: 22 dc, 10 bpdc, 3 fpdc = 35 st/ side)

  19. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 35 sc] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (37 sc/ side)

  20. Start in corner ch-2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 7 bpdc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st (do not accidentely sk two st!), 21 dc, fptr around rd 18 fpdc, sk 1 st, 7 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 23 dc, 14 bpdc, 2 fptr = 39 st/ side)


Round by round pictures (round 1 to 18, no pictures for rd 19 and 20, as these rounds are pretty easy)




A bit thank you to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Natalie (Sms134 on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry)


That's it! Have fun! Copyright by Loewenzahm August 2025




Sonntag, 30. März 2025

Slip stitch joining

Hi to you all,

 

I just tried this new joining method, and because it's nice, easy and flat, I wrote it down.

 This won't be a long post, just a quick photo tutorial, if someone is interested in the making.

That's the look in the end:

 

And here are my handwritten charts:

 


 And some describing pictures:

 

 


That's it for today! Hope that helps.

Freitag, 28. Februar 2025

Flower Bouquet

This is my contribution to the bamcal 2025 and an homage to early spring flowers. I combined different flowers for you: lesser celandine, daisy, tulip, dandelion. Flowers that mean spring for me. The result is a big new flower. Or, if you want to say so- a flower bouquet.


I did not use the original colours, as in the bamcal we all use our unique ones. So feel free to use whatever you want. If you want to use the colours the plants really have: lesser celandine is yellow, daisy white and yellow, tulip exists in many ways and dandelion seeds are light brown. But it's not necessary at all. The only thing you have to take care is not to fo when I say so, as some effects need more than one round.


The pattern contains 22 rounds, which is quite a big amount, and it looks very complex. But please don't fear- most of the time I used basic stitches and many of the rounds are so easy and repetet that I even decided not to provide a stitch count in these rounds.


Pattern uses U.S. Terms




Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.


Skill level: intermediate


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  • 5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Stitches and abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • 2trcl – 2 treble cluster 

  • 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

  • 3 fpdccl – 3 front post double crochet cluster 

  • bphdc – back post half double crochet

  • bpsc – back post single crochet

  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • fo – fasten off

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • fphdc – front post half double crochet

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • picot (see below)

  • popcorn (see below)

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • special picot (see below)

  • st – stitch

  • tr – treble crochet

  • V – V-stitch (see below)


Special stitches:


picot: ch 3, slst into the 2 strands (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below


popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close


Special picot: ch 3, slst into the 4 loops (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below


V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st



Notes


  • the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

  • Every round ends with a slst to join

  • Every round ends with fo, unless otherwise stated.

  • I recommend to work all back post stitches shallow (but there's no need to).

  • Stitch counts are only indicated in complex rounds.


Colourways:


Round

Ethiopian colourway

Lavendula colourway

1

dark red

turquoise

2

middle green

middle green

3

middle green

middle green

4

dark yellow

lavender

5

dark yellow

lavender

6

light red

white

7

light red

white

8

middle green

middle green

9

middle green

middle green

10

light yellow

purple

11

light yellow

purple

12

dark yellow

blackberry

13

middle green

white

14

middle green

white

15

white

turquoise

16

white

turquoise

17

middle green

middle green

18

dark yellow

brown

19

middle green

middle green

20

dark yellow

brown

21

white

white

22

white

grey




Pattern:


Lesser celandine


  1. Ch 5, slst to form a ring (or magic ring as a start, just as you prefer), ch 1 (does not count as a st), work (sc, 2 trcl, ch 1) x8 into the ring. Pull all your 2trcl to the front.


Lesser celandine leaves


  1. Start in any 2trcl, work only in 2trcl, sk all other st: (fpsc around 2trcl, ch 2) x8. Do not fo.


  1. [Slst into next ch 2- space, ch 1 (very loosely worked, just to get height), (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) into ch 2- space, slst into fpsc, now working in sk sc of rd 1 and over ch- 2 of rd 2: sc, slst into rd 2 fpsc] x4. (Total stitch count: 20 dc, 12 slst, 4 ch- 1, 4 picot, 4 sc)


Daisy


  1. Work only in rd 3 sc, sk all other st. Start in any sc: (sc, ch 4) x4. Pull ch- 4 behind the lesser celandine leaves. Do not fo.

  2. Work only in ch- 4- Sk all sc. Slst into next ch- space, ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (8 dc in ch- 4) x4.

  3. Start in any rd 3 picot: [sc into picot, now back to rd 5: 8 bpsc (start in the 5th dc of an 8 dc- group, do not sk any st except the beginning ch- 1] x4. Do not fo. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the next rounds.

  4. Ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (3 dccl, special picot, ch 1, sk 1) x18.

Daisy leaves


  1. Work only in sk st of rd 6. sk all other st. Start in any rd 6 sk bpsc: [dc (worked in front of rd 7 ch- 1), ch 2 (pull behind rd 7 special picot)] x18. Do not fo.

  2. [ch 2, work 3fpdccl around next dc , ch 2, slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (before the petal), ch 1 (pull behind work), slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (after the petal)] x18.


Tulip


  1. Work only in ch- 1 of last round. Sk all other st: (sc into ch- 1, ch 3) x18. Pull ch- 3 behind leaves. Do not fo.

  2. Work only in ch- 3, sk all other st: [In first ch- 3 work: (slst, sc, 2 hdc, dc), in second ch- 3 work: (dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, dc), in third ch- 3 work (dc, 2 hdc, sc, slst)] x6. (Stitch count per petal: 2 slst, 2 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 1 picot)

  3. Start in any sc at the beginning of a petal: (7 bphdc, ch 1, hdc in picot, ch 1, 7 bphdc, sk slst, fphdc around rd 10 sc, back to rd 11: sk slst) x6. (Stitch count per petal: 14 bphdc, 2 ch- 1, 1 hdc, 1 fphdc)


Background (part 1)


  1. Start at any fphdc: [{(dc, ch 1) x5, dc, all in fphdc}, sk 4 st, 3 bpsc, ch 3, sk (ch 1, hdc, ch 1), 3 bpsc, sk 4 st] x6. Do not fo. (Stitch count per repetition: 6 dc, 5 ch- 1, 6 bpsc, 1 ch- 3)

  2. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: slst to third ch- 1 of a fan, ch 1 (does not count as a st). (sc in third ch of a fan, ch 3, dc into space between fan and first bpsc, ch 3, sc in rd 12 hdc and around rd 13 ch- 3 together, ch 3, dc in space between last bpsc and next fan, ch 3) x6. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the squaring rounds.(stitch count per repetition: 2 sc, 2 dc, 4 ch- 3)


Squaring rounds


  1. First of all mark your corners. Look at the 4 leaves at round 3. The corners are (more or less) directly above their picots. There should be a sc of round 14 (2 of them go into a rd 13 fan, 2 of them go into a hdc of rd 12 petal). Place stitch markers. (See round by round picture for rd 14 for the marked corners). Start in any corner sc: [(tr, ch 3, tr) in sc, 4 dc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 sc into next ch- space, sc into next st, 4 sc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 dc into next ch- space] x4. Do not fo. (Stitch count per side: 2 tr, 1 corner ch- 3, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 9 sc = 27 st/ side)


  1. Slst into corner ch- 3, ch 1 (does not count as a st): [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch- space, hdc, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 9 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, hdc] x4. (Stitch count per side: 14 hdc, 8 dc, 9 sc, 1 corner ch- 2 = 31 st/ side)


Dandelion buds and seeds


  1. Start in any corner ch- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc, ch 3, sk 3 st, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc] x4 (Stich count per side: 2 hdc, 1 corner ch- 2, 8 ch- 1, 20 bphdc, 1 ch- 3 = 33 st/ side)

  2. Start in any rd 17 corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, now all into rd 16: ch 3, (dc in unworked st from rd 16, in front of rd 17 ch- space, ch 2) x4, ch 1, popcorn in second unworked st of a set of 3 in rd 16 (sk st directly before and after the popcorn), ch 3, (dc in next rd 16 unworked st, ch 2) x4, ch 1] x4. (Stitch count per side: 2 sc, 2 ch- 3, 8 ch- 2, 2 ch- 1, 8 dc, 1 popcorn = 35 st/ side)

  3. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc into next st; now to rd 17 (work in unworked st, don't miss first st): 3 hdc, (ch 1, sk rd 18 dc, hdc in next 2 skipped st) x4; now around rd 17 and 18 ch- space together: hdc, ch 1, sk popcorn, hdc; now again in rd 17: (2 hdc in unworked st, ch 1, sk rd 18 dc) x4, 3 hdc; back to rd 18: sc in sc] x4 (Stitch count per side: 4 sc, 24 hdc, 11 ch- 1, 1 corner ch- 2 = 37 st/side)

  4. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in rd 18 popcorn, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1] x4 (Stitch count per side: 2 hdc, 2 fpdc, 6 ch- 1, 3 dc, 8 V- stitch = 37 st/ side


Background (part 2)


  1. Start in any corner ch- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk 1 st, dc in ch- 1. dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1 (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, (2 dc in ch- 1 of middle fan) x2, (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, dc in ch- 1, dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1, dc in hdc] x4 (Stitch count: 37 dc/ side)

          This and the next rounds are good rounds to adapt your size if needed!

  1. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc to the end of the side] x4. (Stitch count 39 st/ side)


    Yeah, you got it! Weave in all ends and be happy!



Round by round pictures:







Lettice, Jilly and Berniece: Thanks a lot for testing for me!


That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2025 by Loewenzahm






Donnerstag, 31. Oktober 2024

Dedicated

Here is the next one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to Heather B, a Hip Hop artist. The name of the pattern is the name of one of their songs.


Pattern uses U.S. Terms




Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.


Skill level: easy to medium


Material:


  • yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

    5 mm hook

  • scissors

  • yarn needle


Notes:

  • the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

  • every round ends with a slst to first st for joining


Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):


  • bpdc – back post double crochet

  • bpsc – back post single crochet

  • ch – chain

  • dc – double crochet

  • 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

  • fo – fasten off

  • fphdc – front post half double crochet

  • fpdc – front post double crochet

  • fpsc – front post single crochet

  • fptr – front post treble

  • hdc – half double crochet

  • rd - round

  • sc – single crochet

  • slst – slip stitch

  • sk – skip

  • st – stitch


Pattern:


  1. start with a magic ring, work ( 3 dccl, ch 2) x8 into the ring. fo.

  2. start at any 3 dccl: [ fpsc around 3 dccl, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into ch 2 ] x8, fo. (8 fpsc, 16 sc, 16 hdc, 8 dc)

  3. start at any dc in the middle of a petal: [ sc into dc, ch 2, bpdc (worked behind rd 2, around 3 dccl of rd 1), ch 2] x8, fo. (8 sc, 16 ch- 2, 8 bpdc)

  4. start at any fpdc: [( 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in fpdc = corner made, sk next ch- 2, sc into sc, 2 sc into ch- 2, fphdc around bpdc, 2 sc into ch- 2, sc into sc, sk next ch- 2] x4, fo. (6 dc, 6 sc, 1 fphdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

  5. start in corner ch- 2 space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 3 sc, fptr around rd 3 bpdc (directly under the corner), sk 1 st, 5 sc, fptr around rd 3 bpdc (under next corner), sk 1 st, 3 sc] x4, fo. (13 sc, 2 fptr, 1 ch- 2 per side)

  6. start in corner ch- 2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 4 bpdc, 1fpdc, 5 dc, 1 fpdc, 4 bpdc] x4, fo. (8 bpdc, 7 dc, 2 fpdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

  7. start in any corner ch- 2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner, 5 bpsc, 1 fpsc around fpdc, 5 sc, 1 fpsc around fpdc, 5 bpsc] x4, fo (7 sc, 2 fpsc, 10 bpsc, 1 ch- 2 per side)


That's it! Have fun! Copyright September 2024 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Lettice (Lettice on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) for testing this square for me!

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