Slip stitch joining

Hi to you all,

 

I just tried this new joining method, and because it's nice, easy and flat, I wrote it down.

 This won't be a long post, just a quick photo tutorial, if someone is interested in the making.

That's the look in the end:

 

And here are my handwritten charts:

 

 And some describing pictures:

 

 

That's it for today! Hope that helps.

Flower Bouquet

This is my contribution to the bamcal 2025 and an homage to early spring flowers. I combined different flowers for you: lesser celandine, daisy, tulip, dandelion. Flowers that mean spring for me. The result is a big new flower. Or, if you want to say so- a flower bouquet.

I did not use the original colours, as in the bamcal we all use our unique ones. So feel free to use whatever you want. If you want to use the colours the plants really have: lesser celandine is yellow, daisy white and yellow, tulip exists in many ways and dandelion seeds are light brown. But it's not necessary at all. The only thing you have to take care is not to fo when I say so, as some effects need more than one round.

The pattern contains 22 rounds, which is quite a big amount, and it looks very complex. But please don't fear- most of the time I used basic stitches and many of the rounds are so easy and repetet that I even decided not to provide a stitch count in these rounds.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Stitches and abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• 2trcl – 2 treble cluster 

• 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• 3 fpdccl – 3 front post double crochet cluster 

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• picot (see below)

• popcorn (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• special picot (see below)

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst into the 2 strands (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close

Special picot: ch 3, slst into the 4 loops (directly under the ch- 3) of the st immediately below

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

Notes

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

• Every round ends with a slst to join

• Every round ends with fo, unless otherwise stated.

• I recommend to work all back post stitches shallow (but there's no need to).

• Stitch counts are only indicated in complex rounds.

Colourways:

Round	Ethiopian colourway	Lavendula colourway
1	dark red	turquoise
2	middle green	middle green
3	middle green	middle green
4	dark yellow	lavender
5	dark yellow	lavender
6	light red	white
7	light red	white
8	middle green	middle green
9	middle green	middle green
10	light yellow	purple
11	light yellow	purple
12	dark yellow	blackberry
13	middle green	white
14	middle green	white
15	white	turquoise
16	white	turquoise
17	middle green	middle green
18	dark yellow	brown
19	middle green	middle green
20	dark yellow	brown
21	white	white
22	white	grey

Pattern:

Lesser celandine

1. Ch 5, slst to form a ring (or magic ring as a start, just as you prefer), ch 1 (does not count as a st), work (sc, 2 trcl, ch 1) x8 into the ring. Pull all your 2trcl to the front.

Lesser celandine leaves

2. Start in any 2trcl, work only in 2trcl, sk all other st: (fpsc around 2trcl, ch 2) x8. Do not fo.

3. [Slst into next ch 2- space, ch 1 (very loosely worked, just to get height), (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) into ch 2- space, slst into fpsc, now working in sk sc of rd 1 and over ch- 2 of rd 2: sc, slst into rd 2 fpsc] x4. (Total stitch count: 20 dc, 12 slst, 4 ch- 1, 4 picot, 4 sc)

Daisy

4. Work only in rd 3 sc, sk all other st. Start in any sc: (sc, ch 4) x4. Pull ch- 4 behind the lesser celandine leaves. Do not fo.

5. Work only in ch- 4- Sk all sc. Slst into next ch- space, ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (8 dc in ch- 4) x4.

6. Start in any rd 3 picot: [sc into picot, now back to rd 5: 8 bpsc (start in the 5^th dc of an 8 dc- group, do not sk any st except the beginning ch- 1] x4. Do not fo. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the next rounds.

7. Ch 1 (does not count as st, just to get height, worked very loosely), (3 dccl, special picot, ch 1, sk 1) x18.

Daisy leaves

8. Work only in sk st of rd 6. sk all other st. Start in any rd 6 sk bpsc: [dc (worked in front of rd 7 ch- 1), ch 2 (pull behind rd 7 special picot)] x18. Do not fo.

9. [ch 2, work 3fpdccl around next dc , ch 2, slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (before the petal), ch 1 (pull behind work), slst around rd 7 and rd 8 ch- spaces together (after the petal)] x18.

Tulip

10. Work only in ch- 1 of last round. Sk all other st: (sc into ch- 1, ch 3) x18. Pull ch- 3 behind leaves. Do not fo.

11. Work only in ch- 3, sk all other st: [In first ch- 3 work: (slst, sc, 2 hdc, dc), in second ch- 3 work: (dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, dc), in third ch- 3 work (dc, 2 hdc, sc, slst)] x6. (Stitch count per petal: 2 slst, 2 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 1 picot)

12. Start in any sc at the beginning of a petal: (7 bphdc, ch 1, hdc in picot, ch 1, 7 bphdc, sk slst, fphdc around rd 10 sc, back to rd 11: sk slst) x6. (Stitch count per petal: 14 bphdc, 2 ch- 1, 1 hdc, 1 fphdc)

Background (part 1)

13. Start at any fphdc: [{(dc, ch 1) x5, dc, all in fphdc}, sk 4 st, 3 bpsc, ch 3, sk (ch 1, hdc, ch 1), 3 bpsc, sk 4 st] x6. Do not fo. (Stitch count per repetition: 6 dc, 5 ch- 1, 6 bpsc, 1 ch- 3)

14. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: slst to third ch- 1 of a fan, ch 1 (does not count as a st). (sc in third ch of a fan, ch 3, dc into space between fan and first bpsc, ch 3, sc in rd 12 hdc and around rd 13 ch- 3 together, ch 3, dc in space between last bpsc and next fan, ch 3) x6. Do not worry if your work is cupping a little bit. We will make it flat in the squaring rounds.(stitch count per repetition: 2 sc, 2 dc, 4 ch- 3)

Squaring rounds

15. First of all mark your corners. Look at the 4 leaves at round 3. The corners are (more or less) directly above their picots. There should be a sc of round 14 (2 of them go into a rd 13 fan, 2 of them go into a hdc of rd 12 petal). Place stitch markers. (See round by round picture for rd 14 for the marked corners). Start in any corner sc: [(tr, ch 3, tr) in sc, 4 dc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 sc into next ch- space, sc into next st, 4 sc into next ch- space, 4 hdc into next ch- space, 4 dc into next ch- space] x4. Do not fo. (Stitch count per side: 2 tr, 1 corner ch- 3, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 9 sc = 27 st/ side)

16. Slst into corner ch- 3, ch 1 (does not count as a st): [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in corner ch- space, hdc, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 9 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, hdc] x4. (Stitch count per side: 14 hdc, 8 dc, 9 sc, 1 corner ch- 2 = 31 st/ side)

Dandelion buds and seeds

17. Start in any corner ch- space: [(hdc, ch 2, hdc) = corner made, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc, ch 3, sk 3 st, (2 bphdc, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4, 2 bphdc] x4 (Stich count per side: 2 hdc, 1 corner ch- 2, 8 ch- 1, 20 bphdc, 1 ch- 3 = 33 st/ side)

18. Start in any rd 17 corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, now all into rd 16: ch 3, (dc in unworked st from rd 16, in front of rd 17 ch- space, ch 2) x4, ch 1, popcorn in second unworked st of a set of 3 in rd 16 (sk st directly before and after the popcorn), ch 3, (dc in next rd 16 unworked st, ch 2) x4, ch 1] x4. (Stitch count per side: 2 sc, 2 ch- 3, 8 ch- 2, 2 ch- 1, 8 dc, 1 popcorn = 35 st/ side)

19. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc into next st; now to rd 17 (work in unworked st, don't miss first st): 3 hdc, (ch 1, sk rd 18 dc, hdc in next 2 skipped st) x4; now around rd 17 and 18 ch- space together: hdc, ch 1, sk popcorn, hdc; now again in rd 17: (2 hdc in unworked st, ch 1, sk rd 18 dc) x4, 3 hdc; back to rd 18: sc in sc] x4 (Stitch count per side: 4 sc, 24 hdc, 11 ch- 1, 1 corner ch- 2 = 37 st/side)

20. In this round, it doesn't matter if you work in front of or over rd 18 ch, choose what is comfortable for you. Work only in indicated st, sk all other st: [(hdc, ch 3, hdc) = corner made, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in rd 18 popcorn, (V- stitch in rd 18 dc) x4, ch 1, fpdc around rd 18 sc, ch 1] x4 (Stitch count per side: 2 hdc, 2 fpdc, 6 ch- 1, 3 dc, 8 V- stitch = 37 st/ side

Background (part 2)

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, sk 1 st, dc in ch- 1. dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1 (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, (2 dc in ch- 1 of middle fan) x2, (3 dc in ch- 1 of V- stitch) x4, dc in ch- 1, dc in fpdc, dc in ch- 1, dc in hdc] x4 (Stitch count: 37 dc/ side)

          This and the next rounds are good rounds to adapt your size if needed!

21. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, bpsc to the end of the side] x4. (Stitch count 39 st/ side)

Yeah, you got it! Weave in all ends and be happy!

Round by round pictures:

Lettice, Jilly and Berniece: Thanks a lot for testing for me!

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2025 by Loewenzahm

Dedicated

Here is the next one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to Heather B, a Hip Hop artist. The name of the pattern is the name of one of their songs.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy to medium

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first st of a round is a standing st unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• fo – fasten off

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• fptr – front post treble

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Pattern:

1. start with a magic ring, work ( 3 dccl, ch 2) x8 into the ring. fo.

2. start at any 3 dccl: [ fpsc around 3 dccl, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into ch 2 ] x8, fo. (8 fpsc, 16 sc, 16 hdc, 8 dc)

3. start at any dc in the middle of a petal: [ sc into dc, ch 2, bpdc (worked behind rd 2, around 3 dccl of rd 1), ch 2] x8, fo. (8 sc, 16 ch- 2, 8 bpdc)

4. start at any fpdc: [( 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in fpdc = corner made, sk next ch- 2, sc into sc, 2 sc into ch- 2, fphdc around fpdc, 2 sc into ch- 2, sc into sc, sk next ch- 2] x4, fo. (6 dc, 6 sc, 1 fphdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

5. start in corner ch- 2 space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, 3 sc, fptr around rd 3 fpdc (directly under the corner), sk 1 st, 5 sc, fptr around rd 3 fpdc (under next corner), sk 1 st, 3 sc] x4, fo. (13 sc, 2 fptr, 1 ch- 2 per side)

6. start in corner ch- 2- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 4 bpdc, 1fpdc, 5 dc, 1 fpdc, 4 bpdc] x4, fo. (8 bpdc, 7 dc, 2 fpdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

7. start in any corner ch- 2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner, 5 bpsc, 1 fpsc around fpdc, 5 sc, 1 fpsc around fpdc, 5 bpsc] x4, fo (7 sc, 2 fpsc, 10 bpsc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

That's it! Have fun! Copyright September 2024 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Lettice (Lettice on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) for testing this square for me!

Only You

Here is the next one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to Portishead. The name of the pattern is the name of one of their songs.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: medium to advanced (as we use many different stitches and in work sometimes in very narrow spaces)

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• 3dccl – 3 double crochet cluster

• fo – fasten off

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fptr – front post treble

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Special stitches:

• Sc popcorn: work 5 sc into one st, remove hook, insert hook into the working loop and pull through the first sc. Ch 1 to close

• V- stitch: dc, ch 1, dc into one st

Pattern:

1. start with a magic ring, work 8 hdc into the ring. fo

2. work in the third loop throughout the rd, start in any hdc: [(sc, ch 1, 3dccl, ch 1, sc) in one st, slst into the next st] x4, fo. (8 sc, 8 ch-1, 4 3dccl, 4 slst)

   Extra note: if you work very tightly, it might be better for you to work ch-2 instead of ch-1. This makes it easier for you in rd 4.

3. into both loops of rd 1, start in any st: (sc popcorn, ch 1) x8, fo.

4. work only in rd 2 st, start at any ch-1 before a 3dccl: [( 2 sc into ch-1), (fpdc, ch 2, fpdc) around 3dccl, (2 sc into next ch-1), sc2tog in the next 2 sc (sk slst between)] x4, fo. (2 fpdc, 4sc, 1 ch- 2, 1sc2tog per side)

5. start in corner ch-2 space (this is the corner position from now on): [( 2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into corner, 7 bpsc] x4, fo. (4 sc, 7 bpsc, 1 corner ch-2 per side)

6. start in corner ch- 2- space: [(V- stitch, ch 2, V- stitch) into corner, (sk 2 st, V- stitch) x3, sk 2] x4, fo. (5 V- stitches, 1 corner ch-2 per side)

7. start in any corner ch-2- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner, ( 2 sc into ch-1 of next V- stitch, 1 fptr around first skipped bpsc from rd 5 {between 2 V- stitches}) x4, 2 sc into ch-1 of next V- stitch] x4, fo. (12 sc, 1 corner ch-2, 4 fptr per side)

8. start in any corner: [(dc, ch 2, dc) into corner, 16 bpdc] x4, fo. (2 dc, 16 bpdc, 1 ch-2 per side)

That's it! Have fun! Copyright September 2024 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Lettice (Lettice on ravelry) and Anne (Catinmylap on ravelry) for testing this square for me!

Je l'aime

 Here is another one of my 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to Vaya Con Dios. The name of the pattern is the name of one of her songs.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy to medium (as we use many different stitches)

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 6“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch unless otherwise stated

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc3tog – dc 3 together

• fo – fasten off

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fptr – front post treble

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Pattern:

1. start with a magic ring, work 8 hdc into the ring. fo

2. start between 2 hdc. (4 hdc into that space, ch 2, sk 2 hdc) x4. fo

3. start in any ch- 2- space. [(dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog, ch 2, dc3tog) in that space, ch 2, sk all other st] x4. fo

4. start in the centre dc3tog of a group of 3. [(fpdc, ch 3, fpdc) around dc3tog, (2 hdc in ch- 2- space, fphdc around dc3tog)x2, 2 hdc in ch- 2- space] x4. fo. (2 fpdc, 6 hdc, 2 fphdc per side)

5. start in corner ch- 3- space. [(dc3tog, ch 3, dc3tog) into corner, fptr (keep it loose) around rd 3 dc3tog (the middle one of the 3 dc3tog), sk fpdc behind st, 8 dc, fptr (keep it loose) around rd dc3tog (again the middle one), sk fpdc behind st] x4. fo. (2 dc3tog, 8 dc, 2 fptr, 1 ch- 3 per side)

6. start in corner ch- 3- space. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into corner, fpdc around dc3tog, fpdc around fptr, 8 bpdc, fpdc around fptr, fpdc around dc3tog] x4. fo. (4 dc, 8 bpdc, 4 fpdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

7. start in any corner ch- 2- space. [(2sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into corner, sk first st (maybe hidden), 15 sc] x4. fo. (19 sc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

Je l'aime and Note to Myself

That's it! Have fun! Copyright September 2024 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry), Lettice (Lettice on ravelry) and Femke (Femke1234 on ravelry) for testing this square for me!

Note to myself

 After a long break- here is the next part of my actual 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love about both of them. And if you like, you can hear their songs while working the squares. This time I listened to one of my favorite reggae artists- Jah9. She has many (self-)reflecting and spiritual texts. The name of the pattern is the name of one of her albums. So you can easily find if you want.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy to medium (as we use many different stitches)

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Notes:

• the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

• every round ends with a slst to first st for joining

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fptr – front post treble

• hdc – half double crochet

• picot (see below)

• popcorn (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Special stitches:

picot: ch 3, slst to the base of the first ch

popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close

Pattern:

1. start with a magic ring, work (hdc, ch 1) x8 into the ring. fo

2. start in any ch- 1- space. (2 hdc into ch-1- space, fphdc around hdc) x8. fo

3. start in any hdc directly after the fphdc. (2 bpdc, ch 1, fptr around fphdc, ch 1, 2 bpdc, ch 1, bpsc around next fphdc, ch 1) x4. fo. (4 bpdc, 4 ch-1- spaces, 1 bpsc, 1 fptr per side)

4. start in any fptr. [(dc, ch 2, dc) in fptr = corner made, popcorn into ch- space, 3 dc (into next 2 st and ch- space, don't sk hidden st), fpdc around bpsc, 3 dc (into ch- space and next 2 st), popcorn into ch- space] x4. fo. (2 popcorn, 8 dc, 1 fpdc, 1 corner ch-2 – space per side)

5. start in any corner ch- 2- space. (popcorn into ch-2- space, picot, ch 2, 5 dc into next 5 st, fpdc around fpdc, 5 dc in next 5 st, ch 2) x4. fo. (per side: 1 popcorn, 1 picot, 10 dc, 1 fpdc, 2 ch- 2- spaces)

6. start in any corner. [(fpdc around popcorn (pull picot in front of the st), ch 2, fpdc around popcorn again) = corner made, 2 dc in ch- 2, 5 dc, fpdc around fpdc, 5 dc, 2dc in ch- 2- space] x4. fo. (14 dc, 3 fpdc, 1 ch- 2 per side)

   Now weave in ends.

How to work round 6 corners

Round by round pictures:

That's it! Have fun! Copyright September 2024 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Lynne (hrdnglynne on ravelry) and Femke (Femke1234 on ravelry) for testing this square for me!

Glücksklee

 This year some bamcal members desired a little bit easier patterns. So I tried to design something interesting in skill level easy. No sure if I succeeded- it's up to you to test if it's interesting enough to have fun.

The theme is the clover with 4 leaves, german '' Glücksklee'' – to bring a bit luck to all of us. In the middle I played around with the 4- leaves- theme, in the outer rounds you can see a meadow with some clover leaves in it.

Hope you enjoy this quick and easy pattern. Good luck to everyone of you!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn. You can also work a 6'' square by stopping after round 6.

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• 3dccl – three double crochet cluster

• fo – fasten off

• fpsc _ front post single crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tc).

Pattern:

1. ch 4, slst to form a ring. Ch 4 ( counts as first dc, ch 1), (dc, ch 1)x7. Slst to third beginning ch, fo. (8 dc, 8 ch-1)

2. work only in ch-1-spaces, sk all other st: [sc in ch-1, (5 dc in next ch-1-space)] x4. Slst tp first sc, fo. (20 dc, 4 sc)

3. start in any sc: [sc in sc, sk 2 st, ({dc, ch 1}x4, dc) into next dc, sk 2 st] x4. Slst to sc, fo. (20 dc, 16 ch-1, 4 sc)

4. start in third dc of a fan: [(sc, ch 2, sc)= corner made, 2 sc into next ch-space, sk next (dc, ch-1, dc), 7 dc into sc, sk (dc, ch-1, dc), 2 sc into ch-1-space] x4, slst to sc, fo. (per side: 7 dc, 6 sc)

5. start in any corner ch- space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 3 dc, bphdc, 5 bpsc, bphdc, 3 dc]x4, slst to first dc, fo. (per side: 8 dc, 2 bphdc, 5 bpsc)

6. start in any corner ch- space: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)= corner made, 15 dc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (19 dc) → stop here for a 6'' square.

7. start in corner space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, 19 bpdc] x4, slst to first dc, fo. (2 dc, 19 bpdc)

8. start in corner space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1 st, 3dccl) x4, ch 1, sk 1 st, 3 dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, (3dccl, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (10 ch-1, 8 3dccl, 5 dc)

9. start in corner space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) = corner made, sc in next st, (sc in ch-space, fpsc around 3dccl) x4, sc in next 5 st and ch-spaces, (fpsc around 3 dccl, sc in ch-space) x4, sc in last st] x4. Slst to first sc, fo. (8 fpsc, 17 sc)

Note: after this round, your square will cup a little bit. Don't worry, it will be flat after round 11.

    10. start in corner space: [(dc, ch 2, dc) = corner made, (ch 1, sk 1 st, 3 dccl) x4, ch 1, sk 1 st, 7 dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, (3 dccl, ch 1, sk 1 st) x4] x4. Slst to first dc, fo.

     (10 ch 1, 8 3dccl, 9 dc)

    11.  start in corner space, work in all st and ch- spaces: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, 5 dc, 17 hdc, 5 dc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo. (12 dc, 17 hdc)

    12. start in corner space: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, 31 bpdc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo   (35 st per side)

    13. start in corner space: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) = corner made, 35 dc] x4. Slst to first dc, fo (39 st per side)