Blüte Monique

This one is named after my mum. I needed a birthday gift for her, and as she loves gardening, flowers and all that stuff, as well as handcrafted things, I created especially for her a sustainable gift box in a flower design. Each part of the flower is fixed on a small magnet. These magnets I put on a metal box. So you have a real pretty box and you can use the magnets for example on your refridgerator.

I used only leftover yarn for this small project, in DK size with a 4 mm hook, You can choose any yarn you find in your stash, as long as the sizes fit together and to your hook size.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Material:

• yarn of your choice

• hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

• 3 little magnets

• hot glue

• a little pearl for decoration (if wished)

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• FO – fasten off

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

Special stitches:

Picot: ch 3, slst to the upper loops of the stitch just worked before the ch 3

Popcorn: 5 dc in indicated st. Remove hook from loop and insert into first dc. Take the actual loop again and pull through. Ch 1 to close.

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc,...)

Pattern:

The blossom

1. ch 4, close to circle with slst. 8 sc into that circle. Slst to first sc. Do not FO. (8 sc)

2. 12 sc into the middle circle, over the rd 2 sc already there. Slst to first sc. FO (12 sc)

3. Work in front loops only. Start in any sc: (slst, ch 3, sk 1 st) x6. Slst to first slst. Do not FO. ( 6 ch- 3- spaces, 6 slst)

4. Work only in rd 4 ch- 3- spaces: slst into next ch-3- space, (3 sc, picot, 3 sc) x6. Slst to first sc. FO (18 sc, 6 picot)

5. Start in any 2^nd sc of a 3- sc- group before the picot: [sc, ch 1, pull picot in front of ch 1, sc in 3^rd sc of a 3 sc- group after the picot, popcorn into rd 3 front loop (where you already worked the rd 4 slst)] x6. Slst to first sc. FO (12 sc, 6 ch-1, 6 popcorn)

6. We still didn't work in every second stitch of rd 4 AND in all back loops of rd 4. That we will now do for the leaves. I recommend to use green yarn now. Work from the wrong side!

Turn your work. Start in a back loop st now lying in front of a popcorn: [slst, (3 dc, picot, 3 dc) all worked into the next stitch, was has been completely skipped] x6. Slst to first slst. FO.

Weave in all ends.

Fix the blossom with hot glue on the top of your magnet. If you want, you can decorate the middle with a small pearl.

The leaves (work 2 of them)

ch 9, 8 dc in second ch from hook, 2 hdc, 3 sc, picot. Turn your work 180° counterclockwise and work further on to the foundation ch, so that you work in a round: 3 sc, 2 hdc. Slst to first dc. FO.

Weave in ends. Fix every leaf on one magnet.

That's it! Have fun! Copyright April 2023 by Loewenzahm

Love-in-a-mist

This time I was looking for a late spring/ early summer blossom. What I found is this one: 'Love-in-a-Mist', in germany it's called 'Jungfer im Grünen', means 'Virgin in the green'.

I don't know much about this flower, have to take more care next summer if I see it in the gardens nearby. So I can't show you a picture, that's a pity! My dear Ravelry friend Lettice says she knows it from her childhood, describes it as a bit old fashioned nowadays. We have to make it fashion again, it's worth! Let's start.

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

• FO – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• hdcV – half double crochet V-stitch (see below)

• puff – puff stitch (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• scV – single crochet V-stitch (see below)

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• trV – treble V-stitch (see below)

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

4- dc- cluster: 4 dc, worked together into one st/ ch- space

picot: ch 3, slst to all upper loops of the stitch below

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

Spike dc: worked like a normal dc, but set stitch into indicated place below and pull to the normal height of the round just worked.

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

hdcV: (hdc, ch 1, hdc) into one st

scV: (sc, ch 1, sc) into one st

trV: (tr, ch 1, tr) into one st

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tr). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

Colourways:

Round	Boho Colourway	Lavendula Colourway
1	Rose wood	Dark grey
2	Rose wood	Dark grey
3	Camel	Light grey
4	Sky blue	Lavender
5	Light blue	Purple
6	Royal blue	Red purple
7	Camel	Mint green
8	Rose wood	Dark grey
9	Camel	Mint green
10	Royal blue	Dark grey
11	White	Rose wood
12	Light blue	Purple
13	White	Lavender
14	Camel	Light grey
15	White	Purple
16	Light blue	Rose wood
17	Royal blue	Dark grey
18	Sky blue	Light grey
19	White	Red purple

Pattern:

1. Note: if you normally start with a magic ring, do not so here. You will need a small space in the middle for the next rounds!

   ch 4, close to circle with slst. 5 sc into that circle. Slst to first sc. Do not FO (5 sc)

2. Note: After this round, your work will cup a little bit. Do not worry, it will flatten out!

   ch 1 (does not count as st), (puff into sc, ch 1) x5. Slst to first puff. FO (5 puff, 5 ch- 1)

3. Start in any ch- space: (sc, spike dc into centre circle [over the sc already there, around the chain], picot, sc [into same ch- space as first sc], fpsc around puff) x5. Slst to first sc, FO. (5 fpsc, 10 sc, 5 spike dc, 5 picot)

4. Work only in fpsc and spikes of the dc, sk all other st. Start in any fpsc: ([slst, ch 3, 4- dc- cluster, picot, ch 3, slst] all in fpsc, ch 2, slst around spike of the dc [on the back side], ch 2) x5. Slst to beginning (into the fpsc), FO. (10 ch- 2, 10 ch- 3, 5 4- dc- cluster, 5 picot, 15 slst)

5. Note: For the correct placement of the slst look at the detail picture (extra thanks to Lettice for it!)

   
   
   

   Work only in ch- 2, sk all other st. Start in ch- 2 before a petal: (slst around this and the next ch- 2 [the next ch-. 2 is after the petal, the slst itself is sitting just behind the petal as you work the slst into both ch- spaces], slst to ch-2 [after the petal], ch 3, dc4tog [ two legs in this ch- 2, two legs in the next ch- 2], picot, ch 3, slst to same ch- 2 [before the petal]) x5. FO. (15 slst, 10 ch- 3, 5 dc4tog, 5 picot)

6. Note: work more petals around the second slst of the 3-slst- group (just behind a rd 4 petal, there is a small gap). All other stitches are skipped.

   Start around any second slst: (slst, ch 3, dc4tog, picot, ch 3, slst, ch 2 [behind rd 5 petal]) x5. Slst to first slst, FO. (10 slst, 5 dc4tog, 10 ch- 3, 5 ch- 2, 5 picot)

7. Start in any round 6 pic. Work only in rd 6, rd 5 and rd 3 pic. Sk all other st: (sc in rd 6 pic, ch 1, tr in rd 3 picot, ch 3, sc in rd 5 pic, ch 3, tr in same rd 3 picot as before, ch 1) x5. Slst to first sc, FO (10 tr, 10 ch- 1, 10 ch- 3, 10 sc)

8. Start in any sc made into a rd 5 pic: (sc, 4 sc into ch- 3, sk tr, sc into ch- 1, sc into sc, sc into ch- 1, sk tr, 4 sc into ch- 3) x5. Slst to first sc, FO. (60 sc)

9. Note: the central flower motif is ready now. For an even more misty effect you can work this optional round. If you don't want to, just go on with round 10. You can also skip this round until the end and decide afterwards if you want to work it. You could also try to use thinner yarn for this round. It's definetely a 'playing- around'- round.

    You could also try a long chain that you pull through the picots of the last loose petals. Then you can open and close that petals with a bow. Perhaps also hiding a little love in the blossom, a heart, a second flower, some money if you give as a present, a nice note… Whatever you do...Work only in rd 3 and rd 4 picot.

   Start in a rd 3 pic (between the st already there): (slst to rd 3 picot, ch 2, slst to rd 4 picot, ch 2) x5. Slst to first slst, FO. (10 ch – 2, 10 slst).

10. Start in a sc above a rd 5 picot: (V, sk 2) all around. Slst to first V, FO (20 V)

11. Note: this is the squaring round. Mark your 4 corners with a stitch marker. Therefore place a double- layer petal on the top.  When the double layer petal is at the top, the first V is directly above the double petal. Count on from there. Put first stitch marker in the gap between the second and third V counted from there. Place further stitch markers in the gaps after every 5 Vs .

    Start at V before your first stitch marker: (V into V, trV into marked corner, V into V, hdcV into next V, scV into next V, hdc V into next V) x4. Slst to first V, FO. (per Side: 2 V, 2 hdcV, 1 scV; plus 1trV for the corner)

12. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc] into corner, [sc between next two V, 2 sc into ch- space of next V] x5, sc between next two V) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. (20 sc per side)

13. Start in corner ch- space: ([slst, ch 3, dc2tog, picot, ch 3, slst] into corner, [ch 1, sk 1, st, sc into next st, ch 1, {slst, ch 3, dc2tog, picot, ch 3, slst} into rd 11 space between two V {over the sc already there}] x6, ch 1, sk 1 st, sc, ch 1) x4. Slst to first slst, FO. (per side: 6 petals, 7 sc, 14 ch- 1 plus 1 petal for corner)

14. Start in any corner - picot: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into pic, sc around ch 3 [of the petal], [trV into sc, sc into pic] x6, trV into sc, sc around ch 3) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. (per side: 10 sc, 7 trV)

15. Start in any corner ch- space: ([hdc, ch 2, hdc] into corner, hdc in next 2 st, [2 hdc into ch- space of the V, fpdc around sc] x6, 2 hdc into V, hdc in next two st) x4. Slst to first hdc, FO. (per side: 20 hdc, 6 fpdc)

16. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] into corner, sk 1 st, 25 dc into third loop) x4. Slst to first dc, FO. (29 dc per side)

17. Start in corner ch- space: ([V, ch 2, V] into corner, [sk 2 st, V] x9, sk 2 st) x4. Slst to first dc, FO (11 V per side)

17. Note: if your square is already at about 11,5“ at this point, you can work the V- stitches with hdc instead of dc. That avoids to get a slightly oversized square.

    Start in corner ch- space: ([V, ch 2, V] into corner, [V between next two V] x10 ) x4. Slst to first dc, FO. (12 V per side)

18. Start in corner ch- space: ([2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc] into corner, sk 1 st, sc in each st and ch- space) x4. Slst to first sc, FO. Weave in all ends. (39 sc per side)

Yeah! You got it! Block if necessary and have fun with it.

Round by round pictures:

Thanks to my testers Lynne, Lettice and Katrina for your help!

Copyright Feb- Mar 2023 by Loewenzahm

Helen's flower

Once again I offer to you a square especially designed for the bamcal. I love this CAL and all those wonderful people from all over the world. I learn so much from you all and we have so much fun, that’s just amazing!!!

Like the last years, I planned to design a flower according to the release month, which should be August. But then things and circumstances changed, and so you get right now a pretty late summer flower: Botanically known as Helenium autumnale Mariachi, English Helen’s flower and also known by the name 'Sneeze weed', German Sonnenbraut (which means something like bride of the sun, a fun fact at this point is that I married last August).

For people who are interested in plant based medicine: Some people use it when you have an influenza or a cough, maybe that's the reason for the 'Sneeze weed' name. Another usage is killing intestinal worms. But please, don't use it without asking your doctor – it's also said to be quite poisonous.

Okay, enough chatter. Let’s crochet now. Have fun altogether!

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 12“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: intermediate

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bpsc – back post single crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• dc2tog – double crochet 2 together

• dc4tog – double crochet 4 together

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• fpdc2tog – front post double crochet 2 together

• fphdc – front post half double crochet

• fpsc – front post single crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• puff – puff stitch (see below)

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

• V – V-stitch (see below)

• wide V – wide V- stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

puff: *Yarn over, Insert hook in given stitch/space, yarn over, pull up a long loop through that stitch/space (3 loops on hook)* . Repeat from *-* two more times. You should have 7 loops on the hook (same height for all loops). Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook, ch1 to close the puff stitch.

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

wide V: (dc, ch 2, dc) into one st

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated. If you don't feel comfortable with standing stitches, you can slst and work ch- stitches instead of the first st (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, ch 3 for dc, ch 4 for tc). A standing puff (rd 2) and dc4tog (rd 6) cannot be replaced, work instead ch- 2 and the special st afterwards (the ch- st does not count in the pattern then).

Colourways:

Round	Calming blue colourway	Lavendula Colourway
1	sky blue	light grey
2	light blue	purple
3	atol	mint green
4	royal blue	lavender
5	royal blue	lavender
6	royal blue	lavender
7	atol	red purple
8	light blue	light grey
9	navy	dark grey
10	sky blue	rosewood
11	navy	mint green
12	light blue	purple
13	sky blue	light grey
14	atol	rosewood
15	dark blue	dark grey
16	light blue	red purple
17	sky blue	lavender
18	royal blue	red purple

Pattern:

1. ch 4, close to circle with slst. 8 sc into that circle (8 sc)

2. (puff into sc, ch 1 [this one is worked in addition to the closing ch- 1]) x8. Slst to first puff, fo (8 puff, 8 ch- 1)

3. Start in any ch- space: (2 hdc into ch- space, fphdc around puff) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 hdc, 8 fphdc)

4. Start in any hdc before a fphdc: (bpsc around hdc, ch 1, sk fphdc, bpsc around hdc, ch 1, don't sk st) x8. Slst to first hdc, fo (16 bpsc, 16 ch- 1)

5. Work only in ch- spaces, sk all bpsc. Start in any ch- space: (4 hdc, ch 1) x16. Slst to first st, fo (64 hdc, 16 ch- 1)

   At this point, your work might wave a little bit. Don't worry about that. It will flatten over the next rounds.

6. Start in first hdc of any 4- hdc group: (dc4tog over the 4 hdc of one 4- hdc- group, ch 3) x16. Slst to first dc4tog, fo (16 dc4tog, 16 ch- 3)

7. Start in the very middle of a rd 6 dc4tog (2 legs on the left side, 2 legs on the right side): (sc into that space, sc into ch- 3- space, ch 3; change to rd 5: slst into ch- 1- space [between two dc4tog]; change to rd 4: fpdc around skipped bpsc; back to rd 5: slst in same ch- 1- space as before, ch 3; back to rd 6: sc into same ch- 3- space as before) x16. Slst to first sc, fo (48 sc, 32 ch- 3, 32 slst, 16 fpdc)

8. Work only in rd 6 ch- spaces. Sk all other st. Start in any ch- 3- space: (3 hdc into ch- 3- space, dc2tog [first leg into same space, second leg into next space] x16. Slst to first hdc, fo (48 hdc, 16 dc2tog)

9. This is the squaring round. All st are worked into the 3^rd loop.

   Start at any dc2tog: (4 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, [2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] into next st= corner made, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (per side: 4 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 7 sc = 19 st)

10. Start in any corner space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space= corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first sc, fo (21 sc per side)

11. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([V, ch 1, V]= corner made, sk 3 st, [V, sk 2 st] x6) x4. Slst to first dc of first V, fo (8 V per Side = 24 st)

12. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. Start in any corner ch- 1 (in the middle between the two V): ([puff, ch 2, puff] into corner space= corner made, ch 1, puff around ch of first V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 2, sc between this V and the next V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, 6 dc between next 2 V, sc between next two V, ch 2, sc between next 2 V, ch 2, puff around ch of this V, ch 1, puff around ch of next V, ch 1) x4. Slst to first puff, fo (per side: 6 puff, 4 ch- 1, 4 ch- 2, 4 sc, 6 dc)

13. In this round, work only in the indicated stitches. Sk all other st. This is the most complicated round. Take your time, read carefully and make it step by step. Start in any puff before a corner: (fpsc around puff, [dc in round 11 corner ch- space, between the puffs already there, ch 2, dc in same rd 11 corner space]= corner made, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around rd 11 dc [first leg of the first V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two rd 11 dc [second leg of the first V, first leg of the second V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around second leg of second rd 11 V, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together, bpsc around second dc of rd 12 6-dc-group, bpsc into next 3 dc, wide V around ch in next rd 11 V and rd 12 ch 2 together [the rd 11 V after the rd 12 sc] , fpdc around first leg of next rd 11 V, fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc2tog around next two dc [second leg of first V and first leg of next V], fpsc around next rd 12 puff, fpdc around next rd 11 dc [second leg of V]) x4.Slst to first fpsc, fo (per side: 2 dc, 4 fpdc, 2 fpdc2tog, 6 fpsc, 2 wide V, 4 bpsc)

14. Be careful not to forget any stitches. Especially the ones behind the puffs are slightly hidden and easily forgotten. Start in any corner ch- 2: ([2 hdc, ch 1, 2hdc] into corner space= corner made, sk first [hidden] st, hdc in next 7 st, 2 puffs in ch- 2 of the wide V, sc in next 6 st, 2 puffs in ch-2 of the wide V, 8 hdc) x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (19 hdc, 4 puffs, 6 sc = 29 st)

15. If you find it too difficult to find the 3^rd loop, especially the first one of this round, you can work bpdc instead. But if you do so, take care of the right stitch count and work ch 1 before the puff – because you need 12 stitches before the first puff). Start in any corner space: ([2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] into corner space= corner made, dc in 3^rd loop of next 10 st [don't miss the first slightly hidden one and the last one directly before the puff, which is actually the 3^rd loop of the puff itself], fphdc around next 2 puffs, 6 bpdc, fphdc around next 2 puffs, sk one st, dc in 3^rd loop of next 9 st) x4. Slst to first dc, fo (23 dc, 4 fphdc, 6 bpdc = 33 st)

16. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (35 sc per side)

17. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (37 sc per side)

18. Start in any corner- space: ([sc, ch 2, sc] into corner space = corner made, sc in each st) x4. Slst to first st, fo (39 st per side)

Round by round pictures:

Charts for round 7:

Charts for round 13:

Thanks for Lettice, Lynne/ hrdnglynne and Jilly/ JustJilly2 and Jacqui/ tiggerbee for testing, cheering up, giving more ideas and proof reading. Thanks for Jacqui/ tiggerbee for providing charts. With every input from you all, the pattern became even more nicely than I could imagine! 

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Dec 2022/ Jan 2023 by Loewenzahm

Calming blue border

Calming blue border

At the moment I make a few 12“ squares that I want to use as cushions. As the squares are a little bit too small for that, I created a border that is perfect for biggifiying 12“ squares with a stitch count of 39.

You can biggify other sizes as well. All you need, is a stitch count dividibel through 3. If you want to biggify a 6“ square with a stitch count of 19, you can just skip the first hidden stitch. The pattern is only four rounds. It is constructed in a way to have a stitch count dividable through 3 in the end as well. So if you want, you can make the border twice for even bigger squares. It is also possible to stop after each round. All rounds have a flat edging, so you can always join. You see- many possibilities for your own creativity.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“ squares)

• 5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc3tog – back post double crochet 3 together

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 together

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• V – V-stitch (see below)

Special stitches:

V: (dc, ch 1, dc) into one st

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Calming blue colourway

Round
1	sky blue
2	light blue
3	petrol
4	royal blue

Pattern:

1. start in any corner st/ space: [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into corner, (ch 1, bpdc3tog over next 3 st, ch 1), repeated until the last st of the side] x4. Slst to first dc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 43 st)

2. start in any corner ch- space [(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) into corner, (ch 1, hdc2tog {first leg in first ch- space which is still the corner space , second leg into next ch- space}, ch 1), repeated until the last ch- space of this side (already the rd 1 corner ch- space)] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 47 st)

3. Start in any corner ch- space: [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into corner, sk hidden st, sc, 2 sc into next ch-space, (V around rd 1 and 2 ch-space), repeated until the ch- space before the last hdc2tog, 2 sc into next rd 2 ch- space, sc into next 2 st (including the slightly hidden one)] x4. Slst to first hdc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 53 st)

4. Start in any corner ch- space: [(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner, sk first hidden st, 4 sc, (fpdc around both legs of rd 2 hdc2tog, 2sc into ch- space of rd 3 V), repeated until last rd 3 V, fpdc around both legs of rd 2 hdc2tog, sc into next 6 st] x4. Slst to first sc, fo (stitch count for a 39 st beginning: 54 st)

Round by round pictures:

That's it! Have fun! Copyright Jan 2023 by Loewenzahm

Little Pearl Dishcloth

 Hi,

 I love working dishcloths - such quick, easy and relaxing projects. And it's so much better for the environment to use handmade and washable dishcloths.

 This one is worked with 2 different types of dc yarn ( cotton or acrylic) used together and a 5mm hook. So it works up very quickly.

 

 

 

Abbreviations: ( using US terms)

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

sc - single crochet

st - stitch

That's what you do:

Ch 30

1. start in second chain from hook, work sc until end of the row (29 sc)

2. Ch 1 ( counts as stitch here and in all following rows), (sc, ch 1, sk 1 st)×13, 2 sc. Turn your work (29 st)

3. Ch 1, sc, (dc over the row 2 ch 1into the skipped row 1 st, sc)×13, sc into last st. Turn your work. (1 ch, 13 dc, 15 sc)

Repeat row 2 and 3 until the desired size. For me until row 29.

Work one row of sc.

For the border I finished one of the two yarns and worked two threads of the staying one at the same time. Then work one sc in each stitch/ row in a round. For the corners work (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc). Finish off and sew in remaining ends.

 

Marina 6"

 Marina

Here comes the next part of my actual 6“ series for you. All squares are named and inspired by some great female musicians. While designing the squares, I listened to their music. For me, music is connecting people around the world just like crocheting. You just can understand it everywhere. That's what I really love both of them. And if you like, you can hear to their songs while working the squares. We start with 'Marina' – named after the italian reggae singer Marina P. For a starter, I recommend you to listen to her album 'Soul Radio'.

Pattern uses U.S. Terms

Size: 6“ by using aran weight yarn.

Skill level: easy

Material:

• yarn of your choice (aran weight for 12“)

  5 mm hook

• scissors

• yarn needle

Abbreviations (in alphabetic order):

• bpdc – back post double crochet

• bphdc – back post half double crochet

• ch – chain

• dc – double crochet

• fo – fasten off

• fpdc – front post double crochet

• hdc – half double crochet

• rd - round

• sc – single crochet

• slst – slip stitch

• sk – skip

• st – stitch

• tr – treble crochet

Note: the first stitch of a round is a standing stitch, unless otherwise stated.

Colour placement: I took only different kinds of blue, grey and white to give the square a 'seaside' touch. Colour was changed every round. But that is definetely a no must. Feel free to place your colours however you like. There is much texture in it, so I am sure, even a single coulour version will look nice.

Pattern:

1. Start with a magic ring. Work into it: 8 sc. Slst to first st. fo (8 sc)

2. (bpdc, ch 2) x8. Slst to first st. fo (8 bpdc, 8 ch 2)

3. (fpdc around bpdc, 3 dc into ch 2) x8. Slst to first st. fo, (8 fpdc, 24 dc)

4. bphdc in each st around. Slst to first st. fo. (32 bphdc).

5. This is the squaring round. All stitches are worked between the bphdc stitches. Start between any stitches: [(tr, ch 2, tr) between one st = corner made, 2 dc, hdc, sc, hdc, 2dc] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (8 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 4 corners)

6. [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 dc between every st of a side (8 dc in total)] x4. Slst to first st. fo. (32 dc, 4 corners)

7. [(2hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 hdc between every st of a side (11 hdc in total ] x4. Slst to first st. fo (44 hdc, 4 corners).

8. [(2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) into ch 2 = corner made, 1 bpdc into around each st] x4. Slst to first st. fo (60 bpsc, 4 corners; final st count per side:19)

   Now weave in ends.

That's it! Have fun! Copyright May 2022 by Loewenzahm

Thanks to my testers Jamie (beaglegirl2) and Ellen (tickleelmo) for your help!